Today’s stats

Total mileage: 119.3 miles

Average speed: 15.0 mph

Elevation gain: 295 feet

Elevation lost: 194 feet

Maximum speed: 22.7 mph

The post Day 21. Saskatoon, SK to Wynyard, SK appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Elevation gain: 203,803 feet

Total days including rest days: 80

Number of complete rest days (zero mile days): 8

Total riding days: 72

Average miles per riding day: 70

The route: Adventure Cycling’s TransAmerican route including Mammoth cave option, Jackson Wyoming option, Eugene Oregon to Florence, Oregon; and Adventure Cycling’s Pacific Coast route from Florence, Oregon to the Canadian border; and then Google directions to Pitt Meadows, BC.

The post Trip Summary appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

I could have ridden all the way into Vancouver but there was no need to. Many years ago I used to live in the Lower Mainland so I know how beautiful it is. I will do some exploring once I am off the bike.

Since today is the last day of riding and it is a relatively short day there was no need to get going early. The advantage of leaving early, which I did not, was to avoid the record heat in the Pacific Northwest. However, the temperatures that were setting records in this location were still less than I experienced in eastern Oregon and Kansas. So it would be like any other day of riding. The day started along the coast which made it feel cool. Getting out of Bellingham was a little tricky because of the network of one way streets and then making a sharp right turn that immediately goes very steeply uphill. If I had not caught a glimpse of the hill before making the turn there is no way I could have made it. One needed to be in the granny gear immediately and I was. Once that short but steep hill was done it was cruising time. A few more ups and downs along the way.

When I got closer to Birch Bay, which is just south of Blaine, it was only then that I realized that I had gained more elevation that I expected. The downhill to Birch Bay was glorious. Birch Bay was nothing like I expected. There was nothing special about it and the touristy things were dated. Of course I missed the turn to Blaine because I was looking at the bay and ocean. I had to retreat to find the turn that I missed and came across the only thing that looked like a grocery store in the area.

Next it was onto Blaine. As I got closer I could feel a more of a Canadian vibe. The Canadian flag was flying more noticeably at places of consumer activities. In Blaine a motorist asked me for directions on how to get someplace as I was riding. I had no idea where they wanted to go. I guess because I was moving slowly, soaking it all in, riding a bicycle loaded with rear and front panniers, that I looked like a local. Far from it! Try 5000 miles from it. I knew in Blaine that I needed to take the truck crossing into Canada. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to say in line with the cars or go where the bus passengers were processed. Since there were no buses at that time that is the place I went. But there was no one around. I went into a building for guidance but there was still no one Though I could not get very far without triggering an alarm. Finally after 5 minutes of asking for assistance someone told me where to go. I just needed to get to a different entrance into the building. Once inside I was quickly processed. I was officially back in Canada.

Next it was onto Pitt Meadows. The Adventure Cycling maps provided directions from this point to downtown Vancouver but not to Pitt Meadows. I knew where I needed to go and had driven the route many times, by car, but not a bicycle. Not too far from the border there was big hill to climb and the shoulder disappeared on the way up for a second lane of motor vehicle traffic. It did not look safe. I asked Google for an alternative and they provided one that bypassed the hill and took me on roads with either a bicycle lane or wide shoulders. The route was not terrible and the drivers seemed respectful of me as I was on the road.

The last step was to get myself up and onto the Golden Ears Bridge. Google showed the way and got me onto the bicycle path safely. Within a few minutes of getting off the bridge I was were I needed to be.

I am now going to spend a few weeks resting, seeing family including my wife and son before the next phase of this ride begins.

Today’s stats: total mileage 56.01 miles, average speed 13.4 mph, elevation gain 1362 feet, elevation descent 1532 feet, maximum speed 33.8 mph.

The post Day 80. Bellingham, WA to Pitt Meadows, BC appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once that it was done, it was on to Anacortes and eventually Bellingham. I was planning to spend the night in Bellingham because it was too far to make it to the Canadian border in one day. North of Anacortes the head winds were strong, but refreshing. There was one last final climb to Bellingham. It took a while to make it up the hill because once I was away from the water and it was hot. But I did make it into Bellingham for an Arnold Palmer Lite, 1/2 lemonade and 1/2 tea from the first convenience store that I encountered. Little did I know it would be my last.

Today’s stats: total mileage 69.23 miles, average speed 11.7 mph, total elevation gain 3481 feet, elevation lost 3471 feet, maximum speed 45.5 mph.

The post Day 79. Fort Ebey State Park, WA to Bellingham, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The roads were good and the weather was good. At the campground I stayed at a hiker biker site and it was more of a hiker site than bike site. This meant I had to push my bike for a little bit through the forest to get to one of the designated camp sites. It was quiet and there was someone already at one of the sites but I never heard or saw them the entire time.

This State Park was a former military installation constructed specifically to ward off an attack from the Japanese in World War II. I am familiar with the forts on the east coast but had no idea there were some on the west coast. The installation was open so people could walk through the passageway.

The best part of this day was the sunset. It was absolutely beautiful.

Today’s stats: total mileage 72.05 miles, average speed 12.0 mph, total elevation gain 3881 feet, elevation loss 3691 feet, maximum speed 45.9 mph.

The post Day 78. Bremerton, WA to Fort Ebey State Park, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Day 77 is the day Sue is catching the train. We caught the ferry to Seattle, it was free. Sue had her bike because she was taking it with her and I took mine so we could do a little riding in downtown Seattle. I wanted to take Sue to the Pike Street Market so see some flying fish. She saw them. If you have never been to Seattle you need to check it out. After leaving the market we went for a relatively short bike ride by the docks. There was a great bike path but there were many homeless people camped alongside it. The other cyclists seemed oblivious to the homeless but it was noticeable to us.

Back at the train station we said our good bye and thank you. Once I left the train station I needed to get back to the ferry terminal to catch my ride back to Bremerton. Somehow it was free again. Did I jump the line or something?

Tomorrow I start riding by myself the remaining miles to the Vancouver, BC metro area.

The post Days 76 and 77. Bremerton, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once again the roads were good except for the final stretch into Bremerton where there was a lot of debris on the road. Once we got to the AirBnB we headed to downtown Bremerton, which was only a 15 minute walk from where we were staying. There was a private event going on at the water front that closed the public walkway along the water. That sucks.

In Yorktown, Virginia filled up her water bladder to drink she never did. She ended up carrying it all the way across the country on her back without taking a sip of it. After a few weeks the joke became that the water was stanky from the constant temperature change each day. She also said it helped in the winds because it gave her more weight. But in reality Sue wanted to take the water from the Atlantic watershed and pour it directly into the Pacific watershed. We could not find a reasonable place along the waterfront so we walked in another direction and found the perfect place. She got to dump her water directly into the Puget Sound.

Today’s stats: total mileage 49.86 miles, average speed 13.6 mph, total climbing 1749 feet, total descent 1775 feet, maximum speed 28.9 mph.

The post Day 75. Shelton, WA to Bremerton, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Along the road we stopped at a small store. The owner of the store did not charge us for our drinks and ice cream because she appreciated what we were doing. Later two older men stopped by because they were going to the pub next door. Now the store and pub were in the middle of nowhere. The nearest towns were 10 miles in one direction and 12 miles in the other. They were two very funny guys and at least a little intoxicated before they got to us. They gave us great advice on a place to stay and eat in Shelton.

It was another short day simply because Seattle/Bremerton was in reach. But stopping in Shelton was worth it.

Today’s stats: total mileage 61.54 miles, average speed 13.3 mph, elevation gain 909 feet, elevation loss 1122 feet, maximum speed 32.1 mph.

The post Day 74. Centralia, WA to Shelton, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once in Centralia, Sue was to make a reservation for her and her bike, which was going with her on a hook, not boxed, to Albany, NY. There was no way they could take both her and the bike to Poughkeepsie because of Amtrak issues. Meaning they had neither hooks for bikes nor baggage handlers to unload luggage for the portion between Albany NY and Poughkeepsie. Since Sue now has a departure date we can make reservations in the Seattle area and also since it is few days away there is no need to go much further. We find a DQ and then a place to stay.

Today’s mileage: 47.57 miles, average speed 12.1 mph, elevation gain 1706 feet, elevation loss 1670 feet, max speed 34.7 mph

The post Day 73. Castle Rock, WA to Centralia, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The riding portion of the day started along a path and boardwalk. Once out of the downtown area it was poorly signed and we shot by the path that would connect us to the main road. The map has us going inland for about 30 miles then catching a ferry across the Columbia River. It is much better than going across the bridge along US #1 between Astoria and Washington State. When we got the ferry terminal we missed the ferry by 10 minutes and needed to wait until the next one. No big deal because it gave us a chance to call back east at reasonable times.

The ferry was taking us to another state. Washington. Along the route we saw an bald eagle nest and one eagle perched on a tree over the water way. Pretty majestic looking bird. Once in Washington state we stopped at the first store for liquids and some nourishment. Then it was on a road that paralleled the Columbia River to Longview, WA. The road was good and the scenery even better. We had long distance views of Mount St. Helens. It was a push to make it to Castle Rock before dark and we made it just in time. Castle Rock was severely damaged by the Mt. St. Helens explosions. As a result an enormous dike has been created to prevent future flooding damage from another explosion of the mountain. I was expecting a late arrival because we did not hit the road until 11 am and we had an almost 50 minute wait for the ferry. All in all it was a good day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 79.5 miles, average speed 11.8 mph, elevation gain 3114 feet, elevation loss 3012 feet, max speed 34.8 mph.

The post Day 72. Astoria, OR to Castle Rock, WA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

It was time to be off and on the road to Astoria. This meant some moderate climbs, travels along some inland waterways, and beautiful seaside towns. There were the great resort towns of Cannon Beach, Surfside, and then finally Astoria. In Cannon Beach we saw Greg and Billy leaving a restuarant and had a relatively quick chat with them. They were spending the night there and we were continuing on to Astoria.

The last time riding on the TransAmerican route was bitter sweet. I was happy it was done because it marked the second time in two years that I have ridden the route which is good. But, at the same time after riding approximately 4500 miles I did not feel done. I knew I wasn’t done because I still want to ride north to Vancouver, BC.

Today’s stats: total mileage 70.85 miles, average speed 11.4 mph, total elevation gain 3455 feet, elevation loss 3540 feet, maximum speed 31.2 mph.

The post Day 71. Tillamook, Oregon to Astoria, Oregon (the last day on the TransAmerican bike route) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

There were a couple memorable stretches where on one long uphill climb later in the day a RV was following us as well as a pickup truck. They slowed behind us because of the steepness of the hill and an approaching corner on narrow roads. The RV driver was courteous and patient as was the driver of the pick up truck. But, one of the passengers in the pickup was obnoxious and rude and he couldn’t resist yelling vulgarities out the window. It was ironic, but we were just saying that this had not happened in Oregon. The second memorable stretch was just a few miles further along the road where we traveled on a gravel logging road, with enormous potholes. There were a few trailers parked along the side of the road and it was hard to tell if homeless lived in the trailers or if they were unoccupied. After we got through this sketchy stretch of road it was a straight shot into Tillamook.

Today’s stats: 76.9 miles; average speed 11.1 mph, elevation gain 4327 feet, elevation loss 4485 feet, maximum speed 35.9 mph

The post Day 70. Newport, Oregon to Tillamook, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Today’s ride along the Oregon coast is one of the scenic. There were hills to climb and traffic was heavy because it was a saturday, but it was cool. I am sure this deterred many people from heading to the Oregon Coast. The scenery was too good to pass up so there were many stops along the way. We saw a seal lion cave with hundreds of seals inside and out and a blow hole. Both were very cool.

The destination for today was Newport. After getting settled and fed there was a long walk along the very expansive beach.

Today’s stats: total mileage 49.6 miles, average speed 12.0 mph, elevation gain 2234 feet, elevation loss 2205 feet, maximum speed 34.2 mph.

The post Day 69. Florence, Oregon to Newport, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Along the way we stopped at a store in the town called Low Pass. When we stopped at the gas station and leaned our bikes against some benches I notice an elderly couple sitting alongside there driveway. When we came out of the gas station there were right next to our bikes and they wanted to talk, and talk they did. They were both in their 90s and had been married for 70 years. His mind was still sharp but her’s was failing. They were amazed with our journey just as we were amazed with what they told us. They also told us that it was still a few miles to the top of the official low pass.

Low pass is only 800 feet above sea level, but when you start at near sea level it takes time to make the climb. Right after Triangle Lake we stopped at a rest stop and as soon as we got back on to ride Sue noticed her tire was flat. So it was back to the rest stop to fix the flat. The flat and tire were going to impact us for the rest of the trip. We needed to stop a couple of times to pump it up before we got to Florence.

When we got to Florence we need to find a place get our picture taken with the water in the background. Florence does not have beach frontage but it does have a small harbor. We went down there and noticed that the community is doing things to revitalize the water frontage with restaurants, condos and open space. Pictures were taken and this mission was accomplished. This is ending point that Sue always wanted until I convinced her to continue up at least the Oregon coast to Astoria.

Now it was friday evening and not much was available for lodging. The campsite where we hoped to stay was full and they were no longer reserving sites for hikers/bikers. We were able to find a relatively expensive and dirty room. It was shelter for the night.

Today’s stats: total mileage 84.71 miles, average speed 12.8 mph, elevation gain 1529 feet, elevation loss 1752 feet, maximum speed 47.8 mph.

The post Day 68. Eugene/Springfield, Oregon to Florence, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The first mission this morning was to find food. There was something promising about 10 miles from where we camped but 2 years ago the town where the store was located burned because of a forest fire. We were able to find little shack near the side of the road that made good egg sandwiches and the best smoothies.

The ride was good and we made it to Eugene in very good time. There was not a lot of climbing today but it was getting hotter as we got into lower elevations. State road 126 had no shoulders or very small shoulders and we were happy to get off the road at Walterville. There were a number of logging trucks on the road as the forest products companies were trying the salvage the trees killed from the previous forest fires.

We needed to make three stops once in Eugene. The first was at the DQ for a late lunch, the second was the train station to plan Sue’s trip back east to Connecticut, and the third was to UPS for Sue to figure out the best way to send her gear back to her house. Mission accomplished and plan was made. Sue would ride with me to Seattle since she had to go there to catch the train back east.

Today’s stats: total mileage 66.13, average speed 13.8 mph, elevation gain 597 feet, elevation loss 1201 feet, maximum speed 30.2 mph.

The post Day 67. McKenzie Bridge, Oregon to Eugene/Springfield, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

In Sisters we made three stops. One for lunch. A second at a bike store for another new tube for Sue. The third and final stop was for ice cream. Now it was time to climb McKenzie Pass. McKenzie Pass is the last major climb by bicycle on the TransAm route. Going east to west is easier because the starting elevation is higher up but it is still a 15 mile climb. The road is not open all rear around because of snow, it is steep and full of switch backs. The vehicular traffic stays on the main road and does not take this path so there are relatively few cars on the road. Which is good since in some places the road is no more than 10 feet wide, windy, no shoulders, with a step edge if you fall off the road. The scenery only gets better the higher one rides up the pass. There are places were a forest fire killed all the trees, there are tree lined roads and rocks. Lots of mountains too. The higher you go up the better is the view of the Belknap volcano, Little Belknap volcano, Mt Jefferson, Mt. Washington, and the Sisters.

At the top, if you make it that high, there is an observation tower that was built in the 1930s and offers the best views of the mountains. Oh ya, there is lava. The Belknap volcanoes erupted over 65000 years ago and the basaltic rock is present near the top almost everywhere. The observation tower is built on the lava flows and the road is carved through the rocks.

The view is truly spectacular as is immediate ecosystem. There is nothing else like it on the TransAm route.

Once leaving the mountain pass we are now over the highest point in the Coastal Mountain range and it is all downhill. Actually it was a 3700 foot descent over 22 miles. There was no need to pedal for the entire downhill. When we got McKenzie Bridge there were no available rooms and the only diner in town was closing. The owner of the diner was very nice and prepared a salad to go for each of us which was quickly consumed. Then we were in search of a forest service campground which was 3 miles down the road. We arrived at the campground just before dark and set up camp quickly.

It was a long day, but a very good one.

Today’s stats: total mileage 88 miles, average speed 12.4 mph, elevation gained 3373 feet, elevation lost 5062 feet, maximum speed 37.7 mph

The post Day 66. Prineville, Oregon to McKenzie Bridge, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

When we got into Prineville it was hot and time to find another bike store to get the tire checked out. In the bike store the mechanics could not find a leak so it made sense to replace the existing tube with a new one. Once fixed it was too late in the afternoon to start the journey to Sisters so the decision to stay in Prineville as made.

Today’s stats: total mileage 48.19 miles, average speed 11.2 mph, elevation gain 2411 feet, elevation loss 2260 feet, maximum speed 30.7 mph.

The post Day 65. Mitchell, Oregon to Prineville, Oregon appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

As soon as we left Dayville we encountered road construction. It was another tar and chip operation and traffic was blocked in one direction. We were fortunate enough to get an escort through the construction zone but unfortunately it was in the gorge, the most beautiful part of the day’s ride. While riding with the escort traffic was blocked in both directions so we could safely pass. This also meant that once we got through the construction zone the traffic coming from behind would be batched together. A dream for a long uphill.

Once through it was a long and hot climb. There were a few times when I overheated. This mammal does not do well in hot temperatures. Also, the water I had left was warm and the supplies diminishing. After making it to the top of Keyes Creek Summit. It was a 7 mile downhill to Mitchell. Tonight we were staying at the Spoken Hostel. A great oasis in the middle of eastern Oregon. In addition the host, Jalet, has to be one of the friendliest people around. It is she that makes this place so special to many cyclists and travelers.

Today’s stats: total mileage 83 miles, average speed 12.9 mph, elevation climb 2428 feet, elevation loss 2974 feet, maximum speed 34.5 mph

The post Day 66. Prairie City, OR to Mitchell, OR appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

It was difficult because it was hot. The first two climbs were not bad the third was the worst. It was longer and the sun was getting lower in the sky. We made it to Prairie City well before dark but after all restaurants and convenience stores were closed. That night we slept on picnic tables, under a pavilion in a campground. It was actually very comfortable and dry. The nice thing about camping is that bedtime always comes earlier. Meaning earlier starts the next day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 69.9 miles, average speed 11.3 mph, elevation gain 4160 feet, elevation loss 4150 feet, maximum speed 32.4 Miles mph.

The post Day 65. Baker City, OR to Prairie City, OR appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

However, before getting to Oxbow and right after we crossed into Oregon we encountered an east bound cyclist riding a Bike Friday. I learned that he was from Rockville, MD and that point he recognized me. It was someone that I worked with, at a company called SAIC, over 25 years ago. Small world.

After Oxbow it was another climb. Today is full of long and hot climbs. As we approached Halfway another storm was on the horizon so we hung around there for about an hour to let the storm pass. Once leaving Halfway there was another climb and descent to Richland. At 6 pm we left Richland for Baker City. It was still 42 miles to go and still another 2900 feet to climb. I thought we could make by 10 pm. We did not.

The climb was longer and harder and sunset was fast approaching. Soon we found ourselves riding in complete darkness on a recently paved road with no stripping to guide us. There was a point were I stopped and told Sue that this was ”F’ing crazy”. Not only was it crazy but also dangerous because we were first riding directly into the sunset and then riding in complete darkness. We rode with headlights and tail lights on to see where we were going and to be seen.

After being on the bike for more than 12 hours the battery on my Wahoo bike computer was out of juice and stopped. I knew we were going to do 112 miles this day if we made it to Baker City. Since there were no towns between Richland and Baker City we had no choice but to go all the way. When we finally made it to Baker City it was 10:57 pm pacific time or 11:57 mountain time. Since we started before 8 am mountain time we were traveling for over 16 hours on this day. Not all of that time was riding because we did stop in Oxbow, Halfway, and Richland but it was still a long day and a dangerous day.

Today’s stats: total mileage: wahoo says 90.62 but it was 112 miles, average speed 10.6 mph, wahoo says 7326 feet elevation gain but our estimate was over 8500 feet of elevation gain, elevation descent – wahoo say 5623 feet but estimate was 6500 feet, maximum speed was 33.1 mph.

The post Day 64. Cambridge, ID to Baker City, OR appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We got into Cambridge around 6 and checked out possibly sleeping location and decided to sleep at the City Water Park, which is was directly beneath town’s water tower. It was a peaceful night of sleep on picnic tables and in a pavilion. Unfortunately, they city kept the lights on all night in the pavilion.

Today’s stats: total mileage 83.2 miles, average speed 12.1 mph, elevation gain 3445 feet, elevation descent 2546 feet, maximum speed 31.2 mph.

The post Day 63. Riggins, ID to Cambridge, ID appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The climb up White Byrd Pass was actually pleasant because much of it was in tree cover. The downhill side of White Byrd Pass to the town of White Byrd was different. It was a steep descent with many switchbacks. It was important to control one’s speed. There were no cars on Old Highway 95, which was a good thing, because I needed the entire road surface to make it down safely.

From White Byrd we continued on to Riggins. There was a climb from White Byrd to Riggins but because of winds that were predominantly behind us they gave us an extra push up the hill.

It was an exhausting day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 74.4 miles, average speed 10.7 mph, elevation gain 4423 feet, elevation loss 4075 feet, maximum speed 33.7 mph.

The post Day 62. Kooskia, ID to Riggins, ID appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We did stop twice to check out two natural hot springs. The first one was 1 mile off the road at MP 152. We left our bikes at the trail head and walked the distance. Near the natural spring we encountered an enormous number of monarch butterflies. The pool was nice and not too hot. The second natural hot spring was at MP 142 and was only 1/2 mile from the road. There were some campsites along the path the spring and we left our bikes at the second camp site. This hot spring was a little higher up the mountain. The pool was deeper and water was warmer. It did feel great.

All good things must come to an end and we needed to get back on the bikes and make our way to Kooskia. It was an enjoyable ride and there was not too much traffic.

That night we sleep at the community park, on picnic tables, which were under a pavilion. It is a good thing because the sprinkler system came on and we would have got soaked in the middle of the night. The sprinklers were aimed away from the pavilion, thankfully.

Today’s stats: total mileage 90.1 miles, average speed 15.0 mph, elevation descent 1657 feet, elevation gain 312 feet, maximum speed 31.5 mph

The post Day 61. Lochsa, ID to Kooskia, ID appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once leaving Adventure Cycling we were off to find the famous graffiti wall. We did not see it yesterday but now we had a better location for it. When we found it was neither a disappointment or a ”wow”. After that we had to back track to Lolo to make the right hand turn to Lolo Pass and Idaho. But before we got to that right hand turn onto route 12 we came across Greg and Billy and a third person Jesse that they had been riding with. We had a brief conversation with them and then it was back on the road because it was getting close to noon by this point and still had a pass to climb and to go down to the Lochsa Lodge in Idaho where we planned to stay for the night. Once we got to the top of the pass we entered Idaho. It was about 12 miles of downhill to Lochsa Lodge.

At Lochsa Lodge I pitched my tent and Sue slept on the picnic table. She does have a tent but for some reason would rather sleep on a picnic table. Honestly I thought she would freeze overnight but she did not.

Today’s stats: total mileage 61.55 miles, average speed 12.3 mph, elevation gain 1975 feet, elevation loss 2093 feet, maximum speed 33.7 mph.

The post Day 60. Missoula, MT to Lochsa, ID appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

A funny thing did happen along our ride. As we were riding along the Riverside Trail we stopped to check our maps to determine the best bridge to cross the river into downtown Missoula. There was an elder gentleman planting native plants and asked if we needed directions. After a minute I realized that he looked familiar and then we figured out that this guy and I had met at a bicycle hostel in Mitchell, OR in 2021. He was riding from Missoula to the west coast and I was just a few days in for my west to east trip along the TransAm. Small world.

Today’s stats: total mileage 14.1 miles, elevation gain 246 feet, elevation loss 213 feet, average speed 19.3 mph, maximum speed 19.3 mph.

The post Day 59. Missoula, MT to Missoula, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Along the way we stopped at a convenience store and met two fellow Canadians. It was by accident of course. The were riding folding e-bikes and where having trouble keeping one of the bikes together. Fortunately, Sue had the right size allen wrench to help. It was then we learned that they bought the folding bikes to fit into their private plane. Through our conversations we learned that one was originally from Alberta and the other from Toronto. They were now living in Iowa as one was professor at the University of Iowa.

After helping the folks and getting our liquid nourishments we were back on the road. However, once we got back on the road we could see that storms were forming behind us and beside us as they came over the mountains. The storm was going the same direction as us. At Stevensville we thought of trying to out run the storm to Lolo or Missoula but a quick glance to the left showed that the storm was now over the mountain and approaching us. As we rode we found the best place to be was under the canopy of a church which is where we headed. After waiting for almost one for the thunder and lightening to pass and rain to stop we were back on the path to Missoula.

We got into Missoula in pretty good time. Found a place to stay and eat.

Todays stats: total mileage 80.9 miles, average speed 13.5 mph, elevation gain 522 feet, elevation loss 1096 feet, maximum speed 26 mph

The post Day 58. Salu, MT to Missoula, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

When we finally made it to Jackson, MT for lunch there was still 60 miles to go to our final destination. After refueling with a BLT we were on a relatively flat road to Wisdom. As we got closer to Wisdom the rainstorms were getting larger. Just outside of Wisdom it started to rain but the hardest rain came once we were safely tucked under the overhang of the Wisdom General Store. Now Wisdom is mosquito central. The agricultural land between Jackson and Wisdom is flood irrigated making it prime breeding habitat for mosquitoes because the water collects and forms pools in depressions. There has to be a better way to do it. Well there is, but these farmers haven’t changed in generations.

We did try to find a place to stay in Wisdom but everything was booked and there was no way we were going to pitch tents and sleep outside. So around 6 pm we left Wisdom for the final 40 miles to Salu. We knew it would be a stretch to make it to Salu before sunset because there was Chief Joseph Pass for us to cross. This pass was at 7300 feet above sea level. For the most part the last 3/4 of the final 40 miles were uphill and the last 10 were definitely down. We got to the top of Chief Joseph Pass right before sunset.

On the way down to Salu there was a mixture of very cold patches and warm ones. The warm ones where the locations where the sun was till shining. The cold ones were in the shadows and at the top of the pass. We made it to the campground right before it was dark. The general store that hosted the campground was closed for it was close to 10 pm. The on-site manager allowed for us to sleep on the porch of the general store. It was a good location because there was an overhang and a storm was in the forecast for the overnight. The rain did not start until next morning. Before we settled in on the porch a baby black bear cub crossed the road a few hundred feet away and entered the campground behind the general store. The bear was chased away then it was all quiet in the campground and for us sleeping on the porch.

Today’s stats: total mileage 105.32, average speed 12.4 mph, elevation gain 4491 feet, elevation loss 5259 feet, maximum speed 37.1 mph

The post Day 57. Dillon, MT to Salu, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

From there it was more downhill to Sheridan but with headwinds. At Twin Bridges we changed direction and started heading southwest to Dillon. It was the right time to change direction because there were storms immediately to the north west.

Today’s stats: total mileage 71.78, average speed 12.6 mph, elevation gain 2434 feet, elevation loss 2313 feet, maximum speed 31.6 mph.

The post Day 56. Ennis, MT to Dillon, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Along Hebgen Lake and Earthquake Lake we started to see individual cyclists east bound. At the Earthquake Lake visitor center we learned that those riders were part of a Cycle America group riding from Everett, WA to Gloucester, MA. Apparently there were 50 riders in total. That is a big group.

From the visitor center to Ennis it was more downhill.

Today’s stats: total mileage 73.61 miles, average speed 14.6, elevation gain 1250 feet, elevation loss 2530 feet, max speed 34.3 mph.

The post Day 55. West Yellowstone, MT to Ennis, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The day was spent doing laundry, trinket shopping, eating ice cream, and going to all you can eat spaghetti feast. The ice cream was delicious and relatively expensive. There was also a walking tour of historic West Yellowstone. The Madison Hotel/Hostel was still a great place to be.

The post Day 54. West Yellowstone, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

After the eruption occurred and we were fed it was time to walk the boardwalk around Old Faithful and to see the other geysers and geothermal activity. Almost immediately we came upon a bison in the trees. Of course there were the stupid people that tried to get closer to get a better a picture. Fortunately this bison was patient and meandered away from the people.

Next it was back on the bikes and heading north toward West Yellowstone including a stop at the overlook for the grand prismatic spring. I had never seen the spring from this vantage point before and it was worth it. It was getting later in the day so we needed to make some time to get to West Yellowstone. The ride from Old Faithful to West Yellowstone was predominantly downhill. Yes there were a few uphills but from Old Faithful to West Yellowstone it was drop of 1500 feet over 40 miles.

When we got into the West Yellowstone we went straight to the historic Madison Hotel/Hostel where we were able to commander a room for the evening. I stayed in this hotel/hostel last year and it is worth it. The building is over 100 years old and the furnishings, walls etc, are all from sewn timbers. I would go back.

Today’s stats: total mileage 60.31 miles, average speed 10.3 mph, elevation gain 2188 feet, elevation loss 3205 feet, maximum speed 34.6 mph.

The post Day 53. Grant Village, WY to West Yellowstone, MT appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Riding into Yellowstone National Park was not a problem. The storms earlier in the month that closed Yellowstone did not impact us. In fact, because the Park Service was limiting entry for vehicles there appeared to be fewer cars on the road. Which is good especially since there are no shoulders along the road. I did have one close call. That is when a big F..ing tour bus came inches from me. Again it was a situation where the driver of the bus should have waited for the oncoming car to pass me before trying to squeeze by me when there was not enough room on the road. I was within 6 inches of that bus as it passed by.

The trip to Grant Village included another crossing of the continental divide. The roadsides were rather heavily wooded. There were a couple of good vistas along the road including along the Lewis River. There was also no sign of any road damage from the earlier storms.

In Grant Village there seemed to be elk everywhere. We either saw 5 different elk in Grant Village or we saw the same one 5 times.

Today’s stats: total mileage 40.1 miles, average speed 11.3 mph, elevation climb 2503 feet, elevation loss 1429 feet, maximum speed 35.0 mph.

The post Day 52. Colter Bay, WY to Grant Village, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The views were spectacular and we were in Jackson within 90 minutes. Jackson was surprisingly quiet for a Sunday morning. There was no where near the number of people that I was expecting. However the prices were a lot more expensive. By far, Jackson was the most expensive community that we entered on this journey. An example of the outrageousness was that 2 scoops of ice cream cost $12. That is crazy. For $12 I would expect the richest and best ice cream. It was not. Probably some of the worst to date.

After a short stay in Jackson it was back north toward Jenny Lake and on to Colter Bay. At Colter Bay we met up once again with Harry and Ed. It was good to see them again.

Today’s stats: total mileage 61.83 miles, total elevation gain 1099 feet, elevation loss 1060 feet, average speed 12.6 mph, maximum speed 28.2 mph,

The post Day 51. Jenny Lake, WY to Colter Bay, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

On the descent to Grand Teton National Park there was an initial downhill of a few miles, then a plateau, then another descent to level and flat ground There were headwinds the entire downhill and the flat lands. There was snow along west and north facing mountain sides down to 8800 feet.

The plan was to camp at Colter Bay but with the beautiful view of the mountains we headed toward Jackson and stayed at an Alpine Lodge south of Jenny Lake. The accommodations were bunkhouse style in a cabin. It was a much cheaper alternative to finding a hotel or motel in Jackson.

As we moved down from the Togwotee Pass the view of the Tetons just got more and more spectacular. It wasn’t until we got to the Alpine Lodge that we could appreciate the size of the mountain range. Truly a memorable sight.

Today’s stats: total mileage 77.06, average speed 11.7 mph, elevation climbed 3422 feet, elevation descent 3688 feet, maximum speed 30.07 mph.

The post Day 50. Dubois, WY to Jenny Lake, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The remaining trip to Dubois was tough because of the headwinds and the continuous gain in elevation. A stop at Crowheart was needed for lunch to fuel the remaining miles to Dubois. Once in Dubois we checked out the church hostel and did not stay. It was small, crowded with 5 people already, no shower, no kitchen and one bathroom. We found accommodations elsewhere and enjoyed a good dinner at the Cowboy Cafe.

Today’s stats: total mileage 75.79 miles, average speed 10.4 mph, elevation climb 3740 feet, elevation loss 2228 feet, maximum speed 29.0 mph.

The post Day 49. Lander, WY to Dubois, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Our first stop was a rest stop at Sweetwater where Ed and Harry caught up to us. They left the rest stop before us and got to a cycler’s cache at mile marker 62 before us. The cache was placed by cycling friendly people from Lander and inside was flat and sparkling water and a few soda drinks. All were warm but that was okay. After this quick stop it was on to Lander.

The winds were present and they were head and cross winds again. I suspect that this is what most west bounders experience in Wyoming. It was hot and we saw the last of the transamerica bike racers at a convenience store 10 miles from Lander. What I mean last of the racers is that he was in last place. Hey but he was 63 years old and still going and I say good for him.

Once in Lander we checked out the city park for spending the night but there was a music festival going on there so it did not make any sense.

Today’s stats: total mileage 60.49 miles, average speed 11.6 mph, total elevation gain 1880 feet, total elevation loss 2713, maximum speed 31.4 mph.

The post Day 48. Jeffrey City, WY to Lander, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The first 20 miles were a breeze because much of it was with a tailwind. Once we got onto Interstate 80 the wind shifted and now it was crosswind. This is the only place were cyclists on the TransAm ride on an interstate highway and it is only for 15 miles. The wide shoulders make it feel relatively safe. Safer than the road we were previously on. However one needs to remember that often vehicles are zooming past at 75+ Mph ten feet away. I will say the professional truck drivers were extremely courteous because they would shift lanes and give us a wide berth. After 15 miles of fun we were off the Interstate and into Sinclair, WY. We stopped near town center and Chief of Police for Sinclair us invited us to tour the town’s museum. It was a quick tour but worth the stop. Next was Rawlins for lunch. On the way to Rawlins we noticed that the wind shifted again and it was a fierce crosswind.

After refueling it was time to conquer the remaining miles to Jeffrey City. There was a combination of two crossings of the continental divide, land that appeared inhospitable, cross winds and head winds for 40 miles to Muddy Gap. At Muddy Gap the first convenience store since Rawlins was poorly stocked, the employee was very quiet and certainly seemed like he wanted to be elsewhere. Nothing had changed from last year.

The last 20+ miles were into a direct headwind that had to be more than 20 mph. Along the way we stopped at Split Rock for one of the most spectacular vistas along the entire trip. When we arrived in Jeffrey City it was either go straight to the church hostel or go to the local bar for drink and food. It was a no-brainer. It was after 8 pm already. To the bar. As we pulled up Harry came out to great us. Harry and Ed are two 25 year old Brits that we met in Saratoga a couple days earlier. They were inside finishing their dinners so we sat with them and had a few quick beers and dinner.

Once that was complete it was a short and dark ride to the church hostel. This hostel is no longer being used as a church but it has become a haven for cyclists from all over the world to stop. It is strategically located between Lander and Rawlins. What is neat about this facility is that it is expected that everyone that stops will write their name on the wall. I did this last year but could not remember where it was. When I finally found it, I added my name again for this trip.

Today’s stats: total mileage 109.14 miles, elevation gain 2201 feet, elevation loss 2684 feet, average speed 13.7 mph, max speed 30.0 mph

The post Day 47. Saratoga, WY to Jeffrey City, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The post Day 46. Saratoga, WY (zero day) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The first 22 miles to the Colorado/Wyoming border went by quickly because of the elevation descent and the tailwinds. The next 20 miles were nightmarish. It was a cross wind. It was uphill. It was road construction. It was vehicles not giving an inch and being tossed about by their slip stream like a leaf. When a semi truck trailer passes you first get pulled toward the truck because the truck is blocking the crosswind. Then, when it passes you are pushed away from the truck toward the ditch because of their slip stream and the crosswind. One needs to react quickly so you don’t end up in the ditch. Those are from the trucks going in the same direction. Trucks coming toward us on the two lane road just push you toward the ditch. It got so bad that when a speeding semi truck trailer approached with a high gust forming at the same time I would stop, put both feet on the ground and duck so the slip stream would not knock me over. I was also trying to teach the drivers to be more cognizant cyclists. There were also instances on the two lane roads where one vehicle was passing another as they approached me from the opposite direction. The very strong crosswinds could have easily pushed the vehicle passing into me because of the wind. Or, the wind could have pushed me into the passing traffic because they were only 3 feet away. What jerks. The drivers could have waited 10 seconds until they had passed me before they made their move to pass the slower car but did not. Why are drivers so inconsiderate of cyclists? Why can’t they use their brain because they gained nothing by passing when they did? They risked so much for no gain. They still arrived at their destination at the same time, or maybe 2 seconds later.

Making it to Saratoga was a relief. It was only 60+ miles for the day but it was a relief to stop. It was intense. There was even some confusion at the church hostel that was graciously settled by riders that erroneously taken the beds that I had already reserved. Two of the three members in that party realized the mistake and made it right.

After getting settled in it was off to the community hot pool. Saratoga has a wonderful hot pool for residents and travelers. It is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and is free. It has three pools and small soaking areas in the adjacent river. There is a changing pavilion with restrooms and showers. While we there the main pool was 107.7 degrees, the adjacent pool was 107.4 degrees, and the lobster pool was 116 degrees. The main pool was the only one that I went into. The lobster pool was too hot. There is nothing like a hot soak to end a difficult day of riding.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.11 mph, average speed 12.6 mph, elevation gain 3661 feet, elevation loss 4862 feet, maximum speed 32.2 mph.

The post Day 45. Walden, CO to Saratoga, WY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

On the way into Granby we passed two other restaurants that we could have stopped out but I was in the mood for breakfast food more than lunch food. When we arrived at the Java Lava Cafe there appeared to be people waiting outside but they were sitting at tables eating. When we stopped a well dressed couple walked by and asked us briefly about our trip. They went inside the cafe and we were right behind them standing in line to order food. Everything looked good on the menu. When it was my turn to order and pay for my food I saw that order was $41. That is an expensive breakfast. It was then that the person taking the order said it was okay and it was taken care of. The couple in front of us was buying us breakfast. It was a total and unexpected surprise. Once we placed our orders we asked to join the couple at their table. This is how we met Carolyn and Steve. What a lovely couple.

They told us of the house they built in Grand Lake and the experience of building in winter and cold temperatures. But, what was very interesting was the story of the forest fire that hit this area in October 2020 and their not knowing if their house would survive. It did. The video that Carolyn showed us as she was evacuating was pretty scary. It was dark and the sky was lite up because of the forest fire including seeing some of the flames flickering over the ridge line. In all total we may have spent 60 minutes with Carolyn and Steve but it seemed like minutes. The time flew by as we ate our breakfast/lunch and they ate theirs. I could have talked with them for hours. Thanks Carolyn and Steve for the breakfast and conversation. For me, it is the encounters like these that make the trip special as we cycle across America. The scenery is beautiful but it really is the people encountered along the way that I will remember the most. Thanks and I hope we can keep in touch.

After breakfast and saying goodbye to Carolyn and Steve it was time to tackle the remaining miles. There was about a 20 mile climb to Willow Creek Pass, another continental divide crossing at 9683 feet above sea level. Almost the entire route along CO 125 up to Willow Pass was impacted by the forest fire of October 2020. Not many trees survived but some did. However there is not much of a seed source for the next generation of pine trees. Because, I understand the fire was so hot that the seeds were burned in their cones and not released like they typically are. Hopefully the trees will regenerate quickly and the forest re-established before too much erosion occurs.

From Willow Pass it was down hill to the small store in Rand. After a somewhat lengthy stop we were on to Walden. By now the winds had shifted and were coming in hard directly from the southwest. That was a cross wind for us. Another storm was on the immediate horizon. I was unsure if the storm would hit or miss us but as we got closer to Walden the rain was inescapable. We were going to get hit. The winds blew harder but the worst of the rain missed us. We did get wet and at times I looked for safe places to wait out the strong winds but none came up. We kept on riding and did get a little wet but other places got wetter. By the time we made it to Walden that was enough for the day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 83.63 miles, average speed 13.3 mph, elevation gain 3455 feet, elevation loss 2877 feet, maximum speed 34.7.

The post Day 44. Kremmling, CO to Walden, CO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The next nine miles were downhill on the bike path through the towns of Dillion and Silverthorne. Then it was back on to CO 9 to Kremmling. For the most part the trip was okay. The road shoulders seemed wider than I remembered and the traffic a lot less than the previous year when I rode west to east. There were a few big climbs but nothing like we had already encountered. The winds were favorable.

When we got into Kremmling the choices to stay were slim. There was a storm in the forecast. But we had heard that before on our trip. We checked out a hostel in Kremmling but the Super 8 hotel was cheaper and appeared to be a better deal. It was a disaster.

When we checked into the hotel, the intake staff informed us that it was Kremmling Days only a few blocks away. We needed to check that out. There was live music, beer, food trucks, and crafts for sale. But there was also a storm looming. You could see the rain getting closer and closer. On the western side of town the mountains appeared green and lush. On the northeastern side it was brown and barren. Two very contrasting environments and we could see the rain falling on the western side. The rain made it to the park where the festival was being held. It wasn’t much more than a sprinkle but it was enough to shut down the live music for a while.

With the help of another couple we moved a picnic table under a pavilion to stay dry. It was then that we met Erin and Barry. A very nice couple from Lincoln, Nebraska who were vacationing in Kremmling. In reality they were using Kremmling as a base to see some cool spots and taking day trips in their vehicle to some places where only 4 wheelers should go. It sounded like a fun 3 week adventure they were on.

Now back to our accommodations. Super 8’s are hit and miss and this was a miss. It was supposed to be a 100% smoke free facility but was not. It does not seem like previous guests smoked in the room but clearly the people directly opposite of us did. They propped their door open to let the smoke escape their room. The hallway reeked of cigarette smoke. The way the air pressure worked in this particular room the cigarette smoke was wifting into our room. The window would not open in our room so it was rather unpleasant. To make matters worse, the people directly above us had a dog that started to bark at 4 am. Not a good night of sleep.

Today’s stats: 48.85 miles, average speed 13.6 mph, elevation gain 1332 feet, descent 2818 feet, maximum speed 33.3 mph.

The post Day 43. Frisco, CO to Kremmling, CO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The day began with a 6 mile warmup climb from Fairplay to Alma along a bike trail. It was the worst trail possible. Too many bumps. Rim jarring bumps. Once in Alma we are already over 10,000 feet. Only 6 more miles to go to Hoosier Pass. Six miles and 1,500 feet in elevation gain. It is a lot in the thin air. The road was crappy with no shoulders but the drivers were great. They gave us plenty of room as we slowly make our way up the mountain at 4.5 mph. As we were climbing dark clouds were coming in and as I made it to the top a bolt of lightening hit not too far away.

We took the obligatory photos at the top but also waited for the rain clouds to move away to the north east. Once that was done it was downhill for 10 miles to Breckenridge. The first 5 miles were filled to step declines and switchbacks where cars had to slow to 10 mph. The next 5 miles were straighter and flatter.

Once in Breckenridge the first order of business was to take my bike to a bike store for repairs. I need more than my lowest gear in the front. The first bike store couldn’t look at it for 2 days. The second was better and looked at it immediately. They were able to make some repairs in that they got the chain on the middle ring, but that was it for they did not have time to look at it further. They did not charge me for this modest repair. From the bike store it was onto Frisco to where we were staying for the night. It was 5:30 by the time we got to Frisco and the place we were staying was next to a street fair that had a BBQ contest going on. BBQ and beers, what could be better?

Today’s stats: total mileage 35.16 miles, average speed 11.0 mph, elevation 2051 feet, elevation loss 2848 feet, max speed 33.6 mph.

The post Day 42. Fairplay, CO to Frisco, CO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

When the day started we were at 5405 feet above sea level. Within 40 miles of leaving Canon City we were at 8400 feet above sea level. It was slow grind with steep grades. By the time we hit Guffe the temperatures were a little cooler. In the market in Guffe we met one of the TransAmerican racers. He was in 9th place in the race across America. He looked exhausted but he kept on going. We had tailwinds. He had headwinds. It makes a big difference.

About 5 miles out of Guffe and on our climb to Current Pass at 9450 the chain broke on my bike. It took a while to get it fixed but it screwed up the shifting in the front. I was now stuck in my smallest gear in the front. No big deal because the rest of the day was more climbing and the following day was even more climbing. However it did make a difference between Hartsel and Fairplay where there was a moderate increase in elevation and strong tailwinds. I could only get up to 13 mph on the flats. The uphills where no problems and I could have used an extra gear on the downhills to make it to Fairplay quicker.

We got into Fairplay, which is at 9450 feet above sea level, right before dark and all the restaurants closed. Good thing we had pizza in Hartsel.

Today’s states: total mileage 75.84 miles, average speed 11.0 mph, elevation gain 6030 feet, elevation loss 1772 feet, max speed 38.4 mph.

The post Day 41. Canon City, CO to Fairplay, CO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Lunch at the DQ gave us enough energy to continue on for another 40 miles. The ride from Pueblo was the beginning of the uphills. It was a slow and hot grind to Wetmore which is over 6000 feet in elevation. Wetmore has no services but we found a spigot outside of church to refill our water bottles and rinse our faces. Then it was off to Florence and Canon City another 20 miles down the road. Fortunately it was most downhill to Canon City.

Today’s states: total mileage 105.74, average speed 14.0 mph, elevation gain 2428 feet, elevation loss 1654 feet, max speed 32.6 mph.

The post Day 40. Ordnay, CO to Canon City, Co appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

In no time we were in Colorado. It took less than 2 hours to pass the Kansas/Colorado border. Eastern Colorado looks no different than Kansas. It is still flat, for the most part, barren, windy, hot, but a little browner. The cropland gives way to grasses and pastureland.

On the way we stopped at the church hostel in Sheridan Lake. No one was there but it was nice to fill our water bottles with ice and ice water. That is such a great stop and all cyclists should take advantage of it. From there it was onto Eads, CO. By the time we got to Eads, which was 80 miles after our start, we were both feeling good and decided to continue to Ordway. Ordway was an additional 60 miles away. It seemed like a lot but everything was going our way. We left Eads around 3:40 and made it Ordnay just before 8 pm.

There was a point after 100 miles where the route changed to the south and winds slowed us down. Then the route changed to due west. With favorable tailwinds we were able to sustain speeds over 27 mph after riding 120 miles. At one point we were traveling over 30 miles per hour. In the first 80 miles we averaged 15.5 mph. In the last 60 miles we bumped our day long average speed to 16.4 mph. It was a big day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 142.33 miles, average speed 16.4 mph, elevation gain 1060 feet, elevation descent 938 feet, max speed 31.2 mph.

The post Day 39. Leoti, KS to Ordnay, CO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The post Day 38. Leoti (a zero day) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Another day of the same landscape can be boring to some but to me it is not. It reminds me of the wide open spaces of the Prairie Provinces where the big skies allow for all weather to be seen before it arrives. The flatness does not get to me, nor do the straight roads. The temperature could be cooler and the wind less but we must take the good and the bad.

Leoti is another small Kansas town and on a sunday night everything is closed except for gas stations. We were lucky enough to find a bakery that was still open at 6:30 pm, but it was not an ordinary bakery. They sold the standard cakes and ice cream, but also mexican food, subs, salads and hamburgers. It was a good and inexpensive dinner.

Before sunset a bad storm hit. The canopy of the gas station across the street was rocking back and forth as it was getting pelted by rain, lifted by high winds, and knocked around by lightening and thunder. There was some hail too but no signs of a tornado. It was not a storm that you would want to get caught outside in, or being camping in. This was the beginning of the weather shift.

Today’s stats: total mileage 81.73 miles, average speed 15.5 mph, elevation gain 568 feet, elevation loss 121 feet, maximum speed 23.6 mph.

The post Day 37. Ness City, KS to Leoti, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

There were two very helpful liquid recharging places in the middle of day. One was in Rush Center and the other at a rest stop just west of Alexander. However I was beat. By the time we got to Ness City, KS the heat was getting to me. I needed to stop.

We found a place to stay called the Derrick Inn. The place looked run down from the outside and was in the process of being refurbished. It still needed a lot of work but a hotel room with two beds, AC, a shower, and to be out of the sun for $60 was worth it. In the 1980s the Derrick Inn was probably the place to be. There was an indoor pool and hot tub and all rooms faced into a very spacious courtyard. Courtenay the manager was very accommodating to us and her husband told us of the best place to eat. It was Louie’s Bar and Grill. It was more than basic bar food and beer.

This part of Kansas is very flat. We have now passed the 100th meridian. It is at approximately this point where west of the 100th meridian it is dry and the landscape appears flat. Cropland changes to pastureland and cattle feed lots are present. The annual precipitation is 5 to 10 inches per year with low humidity. Whereas east of the 100th meridian the the land has some hills. Crops of wheat, soybeans and corn dominant. There is 20 to 30 inches of rain per year and the air is more humid.

Interestingly, Kansas is not all flat. There is over a 2400 foot elevation gain from the Kansas/Missouri border to the Kansas/Colorado border. We are now over 3000 feet in elevation and will stay this high until we hit Idaho.

Today’s stats: total mileage 63.34 miles, average speed 12.5 mph, elevation gain 525 feet, elevation loss 328 feet, maximum speed 20.4 mph.

The post Day 36. Great Bend, KS to Ness City, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

After getting back to the church hostel Sue and I packed up. We still wanted to ride over 60 miles today and go across a 53 mile section without services. Before we left, Joel arrived. We had seen Joel before in a couple of different places along the route. Nice guy he is. He could not understand why we were leaving so late and when it was the hottest part of the day, but the winds were good and there is lots of sunshine riding this time of year. We stopped to get lunch and ice cream before the serious riding started. It wasn’t after 2:30 that we really started our ride for the day.

The thing about riding with Sue is that not only is she fast and a strong rider but she has to cover every square inch of the TransAmerica route. There are no shortcuts. This meant we had to back track to the exact location where we got off the trail. Once back on the route we encountered road construction. There was a 4 or 5 mile gravel detour around the construction site but it was poorly signed. It appears that the state is building a new highway and directly in front of us the construction was for a new bridge over new road. Our route was completely blocked. We could have taken another road out of Hutchinson and we would have avoided the construction all together.

After stopping for a few minutes and trying to figure out the best way to get around the construction a person emerged from behind the trees and said we could take our bikes immediately around the construction site but not over the new ramp. Now it rained a lot last night so it had to be muddy but this person assured us that it was not bad. Maybe not bad if one is driving a 4 wheel pickup truck. Our bikes were coated in mud as were our feet. Before getting on the bikes after passing the worst of the mud we had to remove a few inches of mud from the wheels. It really wasn’t that bad, but we could have done without it.

In the next town of Dickerson we were able to use a spigot at the town park to get the rest of the mud off the bikes and shoes. Now we just had to travel 53 miles to the next town.

Parts of the road were desolate but it was flat and the winds were in our favor. It was not too hot but it was still warm. We made it to Great Bend in good time, but it was still after 8 pm. It could have been worse.

Today’s stats: total mileage 77.82 miles, average speed 13.5 mph, elevation gain 397 feet, elevation loss 233 feet, maximum speed 24.2 mph.

The post Day 35. Hutchinson, KS to Great Bend, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

A stop at Harley’s bicycle store enabled me to get a little work completed on my derailleur and we got the key to the Zion Lutheran Church hostel. By making this unscheduled stop we also planned to visit the underground salt mine on the outskirts of Hutchinson the following morning. During one of our stops at the bike store we met Lotte, who is from Amsterdam. She was riding west to east and was spending the night camping at a warm showers host. But with the forecast of severe storms overnight with golf ball sized hail we convinced her to also stay at the hostel. Around 7 pm that night Lotte arrived. The hostel was good. It had a good kitchen, shower, AC, towels and lots of space to lay down sleeping pads and blankets. It was good to hear of hear of experiences of riding across Nevada and Utah. It sounds like she is having an amazing trip.

Today’s stats: total mileage 49.42 miles, average speed 14.0 mph, elevation gain 364 feet, elevation loss 318 feet, maximum speed 25.8 mph.

The post Day 34. Newton, KS to Hutchinson, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We didn’t get going until 10:30 am. However before going too far we had to make a lunch stop at the Leaping Lizard gas station and grill. They have the best sandwiches. Once fed it was time to get on the bikes and ride. As normal, Sue and I took the lead. After 23 miles we were in Eureka, KS and waited, and waited and waited for Greg, Bill and Paul to arrive. As we were getting ready to leave town they showed up. Almost immediately upon their arrival Greg said that he could not keep the pace up and he encouraged Sue and I to continue. We said good bye to Bill and Greg and wished good luck to Paul since he was going to Witchita and Salt Lake City. Greg and Bill were going to spend the rest of the day in Eureka and then travel to Newton the next day.

It was now 2:30 pm and we needed to do an additional 70 miles to reach Newton, KS. The ride was pleasant with some hills but favorable winds. Around 6 pm we made it to Cassoday and stopped at the Country Store and saw Vanessa, Dennis and Maui. Maui is their dog that rides in the back of Vanessa’s bike. After chatting with them for a bit it was now 6:40 and we still had 38 miles to go to make it to Newton. We went fast and did the final 38 miles in less than 2 1/2 hours. We arrived just before dark and found a place to stay and eat. It was another long day but worth it.

Today’s stats: 97.34 miles, average speed 13.0, total elevation gained 1932 feet, elevation descent 1427 feet, maximum speed 24.9.

The post Day 33. Cross Timbers State Park, KS to Newton, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We have encountered so much rain already on this trip. There was more in the evening and the skies were overcast when we left. Which was good since we had a long day planned. There really is not many places to stay between Pittsburg and Toronto so it is necessary to make a commitment to carryon the entire way. One could stay in Chanute but that makes for too short of a day. Bill definitely wanted to stay in Chanute. Greg was willing to continue beyond Chanute and he rode with Sue and I between Pittsburg and Chanute. But they were hurting by the time we got to our campsite.

Along this ride we met Paul. Paul was traveling solo from Georgia to Salt Lake City. Along the way he found a baby kitten and who became his passenger. We convinced Paul to travel with us to Cross Timbers State Park and camp with us. Which he did. Traveling with a kitten created many unnecessary hardships, such as a carrying cat food, more laundry trips because of the cat poopig where it shouldn’t, and not having enough space for human food.

Once leaving Chanute there were few services but there were hills. It was hot, it was a long day but we made it to Cross Timbers State Park, which is just south of Toronto, KS. Today was also a day where we were all going to camp. When we arrived at the campsite is was after 6 and the ”boys” were a little cranky. Understandable so, because it was a long day. At the campsite was Joel who we met before in Farmington, MO. After settling in by getting sleeping spots arranged, showered, and fed it was off to bed for all of us. We just needed to wait until the lightening, thunder, rain, and wind to arrive in the middle of the night. The storms were expected.

Today’s stats: total mileage 100.69 miles, average speed 14.1 mph, total elevation gain 1286 feet, elevation descent 1430 feet, maximum speed 31.0 mph.

The post Day 32. Pittsburg, KS to Cross Timbers State Park, KS (just south of Toronto, KS) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The further west we go the flatter the land becomes. There are still some hills but they become fewer and the hills not as high in height nor as low to get to the bottom. We are now also in the land where the road stays straight for miles and miles. The highlight of the day is stopping for lunch in Golden City, MO at Cooky’s Cafe. Many cyclists stop here on the TransAmerican route because the food is excellent, inexpensive and they have the best pies around. A BLT and a piece of rhubarb pie al la mode was still less than $10. It was a great refueling.

Onto to Pittsburg, KS it was. Many miles of straight roads brought us into Pittsburg. Pittsburg is the home of the world series for college club baseball, for those of you that don’t know that. Just as we got into Pittsburg Greg punctured his front tire. It was a quick fix and off we went to our hotel for the night. A Super 8. Not the best place but it was convenient to food and a super Walmart. After we showered and leaving the hotel to find a place to eat we discovered that Steve was also staying there. Now the 5 of us were off in search of food.

Today’s stats: total mileage 71 miles, average speed 12.7 mph, elevation gain 2064 feet, elevation loss 2080 feet, maximum speed 32.2 mph.

The post Day 31. Ashgrove, MO to Pittsburg, KS appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

A short rest become longer and then it was on to Ashgrove. Another storm was brewing and we wanted to beat the storm before getting to Ashgrove. In Ashgrove we stayed in the Community Center in the town park. A great facility with air conditioning, lots of space to spread out, and a good kitchen. A good kitchen is important now because it is sunday and all the restaurants are close in the blooming city of Ashgrove. It was every person for themselves for cooking tonight. Also staying at the community center was Steve and Amador. Amador arrived into Ashgrove before us but was nice enough to get beer for Greg and I to share a cold one with him. It was a very pleasant surprise and needed by us.

Today’s stats: total mileage 46.88 miles, maximum speed 41 mph, average speed 12.8 mph, total elevation climb 3150 feet, total descent 3530 feet.

The post Day 30. Marshfield, MO to Ashgrove, MO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We made it there around 1 pm and stopped at a store to get supplies. After many minutes, Bill, the straggler, arrived and said that he could go no further. There were a few campgrounds where he could stay. However, after many moments of silence and when Sue, Greg and I were going to push on to Marshfield Billy was getting on his bike to join us.

The trip between Hartville and Marshfield was not too hilly and not too much traffic. It was a good ride. The past two days of riding in the Ozarks are not what I remember from last year. Last year it seemed to be up and down repeatedly for 3 days. We only had 1/2 a day of that this year. Maybe it is easier going to east to west versus west to east but most likely it is because it is much cooler and there is no humidity.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.8 miles; average speed 12.4 mph; elevation gain 4022 feet; elevation descent 3681 feet; maximum speed 39.5 mph.

The post Day 29. Houston, MO to Marshfield, MO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We left Ellington around 8 am and headed west. Immediately the road started the roller coaster ride. The road is narrow with no shoulders or a very narrow shoulder. In addition there is a rumble strip along the white edge line rendering the shoulder, if there is one useless. Some of the hills were 10 to 14 percent in grade. In one case it was over 16%. My bike computer does many things including showing the grade of the road. It is GPS based so it has to be somewhat accurate.

The ride from Ellington to Eminence was tough. It took Sue and I just under 3 hours to cover the first 30 miles because of the terrain. We stopped at the Dairy Barn in Eminence for cold nourishment. At 11 am when the Dairy Barn opened up people were already lining up for ice cream. By 11:30 all the tables were full. After 50 minutes of waiting, eating and waiting Greg and Bill showed up. They looked exhausted and between down. Shortly after they got to the Dairy Barn Sue and I left. We were rested and fed and planned to make our way to Houston. Plus we wanted to stop at Alley Spring & Mill National Park. The grist mill and spring are on the backside of the commemorative quarter for the State of Missouri. The grist mill and spring are reported to be the most photographed feature in Missouri. After seeing the mill and spring I can understand why.

As we were preparing to leave Bill and Greg arrived. Bill was looking for a campsite and beaten. It was only 36 miles into the day’s ride. We convinced them to take a look at the mill and continue on. After leaving Alley Spring and Mill there was a long uphill climb to a plateau where the land was flatter, but not flat. We continued on to Summersville and stopped there for refreshments. It was hot so it was important to get plenty of liquids to drink. After waiting 30 minutes there was no sign of Bill and Greg. They knew where we were going and they knew where we were planning to stay so we moved on. Again the riding conditions improved. The uphills were not as steep and there were a few long downhills.

As we approached Houston we turned a corner and started downhill. From the distance we could see a man walk across the highway to collect his mail and go back. As we got closer he recrossed the highway and it was apparent that he wanted to speak with us. We stopped and he asked where we going and where we planning to stay. We learned that his name was Wes and that we could stay with him because he had a separate apartment with a kitchen, shower, washer and dryer. We were hesitant because we knew that Bill and Greg were behind us and they knew where we were staying. Wes asked us if we wanted to take a look at the place. We left our bikes near the highway propped against a hay bale and hopped into Wes’ 4 wheeler to take a look. After traveling a few hundred feet and into the trees we entered an oasis of beauty. The ”shack” as Wes called it was fantastic. It was everything we needed and more. Plus, Wes seemed like such a honest, sincere, and genuine person. I did want to check in with Greg and Bill to see where they were, but my phone was still on the bike. Back to our bikes we went and when I checked the phone there was a message from Greg saying they were exhausted and staying in Summerville. We quickly jumped onto Wes’ offer.

We had a great time talking with Wes and appreciated the hospitality he provided. Wes is a recent widower after loosing his wife to cancer last November. Before his wife’s death, Judy and him, hosted cyclists over the years and we would be the first for this season and since her death. It was evident that Wes misses his wife and has many very fond memories from the life they shared together. That night after we were cleaned up the 3 of us went into Houston for dinner. The dinner was very good and it was so much fun being with Wes. The next morning Wes took us back into town for breakfast.

Wes, thank you for everything from the accommodations, to the hospitality you provided, and the stories. It is meeting people like you that makes a trip like this special. The generosity you showed us clearly shows that there are good people out there and I will remember that more so than the ones that scream at us or expel rolling coal from their gas guzzling trucks. Thanks Wes!

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.86 miles, average speed 11.5 mph, elevation gain 5,627 feet, elevation descent 5171 feet, maximum speed 42.0 mph.

The post Day 28. Ellington, MO to Houston, MO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once beyond Bismarck the rollers started. The ups are getting more frequent and steeper. Some uphill gradients are more than 10% with highest seen so far at 15%. Some of the hills we are able to pick up enough momentum to make it over the next hill crest but most we are not going fast enough and we come to a thud. The road gradients quickly goes over 6 percent and all momentum is lost.

We make it to Ellington in relatively good time with plenty of time before sunset. Not that it matters since we are sleeping indoors at a hostel provided by the town of Ellington. The hostel is not the greatest but it works.

Today’s stats: total mileage 66.03 miles, average speed 12.5 mph, elevation gain 3783 feet, elevation descent 4045 feet, maximum speed 39.9 mph.

The post Day 27. Farmington, MO to Ellington, MO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We did find a couple of nice restaurants in an old shirt factory. Otherwise it was a quiet day.

The post Day 26. Farmington, MO (rest day) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The post Day 25. Farmington, MO (Rest day) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Before taking the bridge into Missouri we had to stop at the Visitor Center that overlooks the Mississippi River for pictures but also to get our picture taken with ”Popeye”. The creator of Popeye was born and raised in Chester, IL but did not achieve his fame until he moved to California. After getting the necessary pictures taken it was off to the bridge. It is a rickety and narrow two-lane bridge that carries lots of traffic with high speed. The trucks and cars move much too quickly across it. In some places the bridge decking was corroding and seems scary from a cyclists perspective. However we are making this crossing before 8 am on Memorial Day so traffic is light. We did manage to slow traffic down and the vehicle drivers were respective, plus they had no way to get around us.

Now it is a day of strong headwinds, hills, and lots of heat. The wind was out of the south at 15 to 20 mph, the skies clear, hot, and very little cloud cover. There was a time when I was riding and wondering why I would punish myself and ride through this part of Missouri again. Missouri is a tough state to cycle across. Lots of climbing of short and steep hills. Even today the grades would get over 14%. I was feeling good as I went through the Mississippi River Valley and Amador and I did a little drafting of each other until we got to the first climb out of the valley. Then he was gone. On the way up I passed Steve.

At one point in the ride we were all short of water. We pulled into a Tiger Rescue Sanctuary looking for water. The gate to the main building was open and the building was locked but it did not stop us from using their spigot to replenish our water bottles.

We made it to Farmington relatively early so we could wash clothes and shop for food. In Farmington the cyclists stay at Al’s Place, a hostel run by the City of Farmington for TransAm cyclists. It is a good spot and Farmington is a good place to hang out for a day. Tomorrow is a rest day before we tackle the Ozark Mountains, or whatever is left of them.

Today’s stats: total mileage 47.37 miles, average speed 10.8 mph, elevation gain 3402 feet, elevation descent 3061 feet, max speed 34.2 mph.

The post Day 24. Chester, IL to Farmington, MO appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Our evening was spent at the Bicycle shack hosted by the Eagles club. The bicycle shack was 10 x 16 building with 9 bunk spaces inside. It did have air conditioning and in the nearby eagles club there was a shower, and restroom for us to use. I though the Eagles club would be similar to Boy Scouts, but I was wrong. It was restaurant and bar and the beer went down smoothly and quickly. That night there was 6 of us in the Bicycle Shack and it was not too hot, nor stuffy.

Today’s stats: total mileage 73.37 miles, average speed 12.8 mph, elevation gain 3527 feet, elevation loss 3609 feet, max speed 36.6 mph.

The post Day 23. Marion, IL to Chester IL appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

After cave in the rock it was onto Goreville. Southern Illinois is not flat. It is up and down, up and down, and up and down. The rest of the state may be flat but this part is not. In addition resources are scarce.

We made it to the church in Goreville and Amador was already there waiting to get inside. So was Steve another solo cyclists from Oregon. Steve was a rather talkative person and after a long hot day we did not have much patience for his stories. Sorry Steve. The church in Goreville had an even smaller space to sleep than did the place in Marion. I was able to score a place at the end of hallway next to the furnace room. It was dark and cool there and I was away from the others who were snoring up a storm all night long. I got a good night of sleep.

Today’s stats: total mileage 72.57 miles, average speed 11.8 mph, elevation gain 4908 feet, elevation descent 4724 feet, maximum speed 37.3 mph.

The post Day 22. Marion, KY to Goreville, IL appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Today was another stop at a Church. It was a short 40 miles and Sue wanted to go further. Greg and I were logical in that we could both push on further into Illinois but there was no point because the ending location the following day was still the same. Bill was at a point of exhaustion and could go no further. The decision was made to stay in Marion. Which is good because we did encounter five step hills and a number of smaller ones during the day. Sue, the energizer bunny, decided to unload her bike at the church and ride to and from Illinois for the extra mileage.

This church was smaller than the one in Sebree and less room for cyclists. For the past couple of days we have been staying in dry counties and dry towns. This was a wet one. I really could use a cold beer.

Today’s stats: total mileage 43.32, average speed 11.8 mph, elevation gain 2339 feet, elevation descent 2215 feet, max speed 36.1 mph.

The post Day 21. Sebree, KY to Marion, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The lightening and rain stopped and we were back on the road again. Just outside of Beech Grove another storm, with torrential rain, started. We rode frantically for cover for the rain was making our visibility poor and worse for any car coming up from behind us. By this time the four of us were separated and taking shelter at our own safe spots. Sue and I were tucked under the canopy of a gas station next to pump. Greg was a few miles back under a tree as was Bill, even further behind Greg. Once the thunderstorm subsided we were on to Sebree. The destination for the night.

In today’s ride we delayed our morning department because of rain, got throughly soaked twice, and stopped because of heavy downpours and lightening three times. It was a wet day but the it was not over. Sometimes, a terrible day can turn out to be a great day.

Out destination was the First Baptist Church of Sebree. This church has the reputation of providing the best resources for TransAm cyclists. It is large, open, game room, cyclists room, showers, washer and drier, and nice kitchen. As soon as we pulled up to the building a car pulled up to welcome us. It was Bob, the retired pastor who lived across the street. He showed us around the place and was very proud of the accommodations, and should be because they were very good. Bob also asked us to join him and his wife for dinner. There was no way that would could turn down that offer.

There were already two other cyclists at the hostel. One was Amador, or Spanish cycling friend, and Wade a solo cyclist from Oregon. All 6 of us were invited to Bob and Violet’s house for dinner. I am not sure how she did it, but within 60 minutes of our arrival Violet had prepared a meal of pulled pork, salad, and lemon pie for desert. Bob was the pastor of the church for 35 years prior to his retirement and him and his wife have been hosting cycling guests ever since. It was treat for all of us to experience Bob and Violet’s hospitality. A day that started out wet and continued to be soggy to a great memory that not one of us will forget.

Today’s stats: total mileage 52.95, average speed 13.8 mph, elevation gain 2493 feet, elevation descent 2582, max speed 35.9 mph.

The post Day 20. Fordsville, KY to Sebree, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

On the way to Fordsville we passed by Rough River State Park, our earlier destination for the previous night. I, for one, was glad that we did not travel that far. It was a hot and humid 40 miles to the state park. Once at the State Park there was not much there other than marinas that catered to the boating community and a run down hotel. The fire department in Fordsville was much better.

Just as we arrived in Fordsville the thunderstorm started. We took refuge under the canopy of a dollar general store and reached out to the fire chief to see if we could stay there. After a few calls he did get back to us and let us into the fire station.

After getting settled in and two emergencies, where members of the voluntary fire department made calls, we were able to establish our resting places between the fire trucks. Dinner that night was at the local pizza place. There were no calls in the middle of the night so our our sleep was uninterrupted.

Today’s states: total mileage 53.99 miles, average speed 13.0 mph, max speed 36.1 mph, elevation gain 3097 feet, elevation descent 3196 feet.

The post Day 19. White Mill, KY to Fordsville, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

In less than 3 hours the ferry was running and we were crossing the Green River. It was a long climb out of the Green River valley. But because of the delay crossing the Green River there was no way that we could make it the 90+ miles to Rough River State Park. Plan B was to stop in Sonora. Plan C was to push onto the fire hall in White Mill. Plan C it was. The last 12 miles from Sonora to White Mill was relatively flat with a tail wind.

At the fire hall we met a Spainard that was riding our same route. That evening it poured. So what is new?

Today’s stats: total mileage 56.6 miles, average speed 12.0 mph, elevation gain 3740 feet, elevation descent 3507 feet, maximum speed 38.9 mph.

The post Day 18. Cave City, KY to White Mill, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The ride to Mammoth Cave had about a 4 mile uphill and 7 miles downhill to the visitor center. We decided to take the 2 hour historic tour in the cave. It was an interesting cave and apparently there are over 420 miles of mapped caves in the area. The parts we went through were filled with large chambers and narrow passage ways.

Total mileage for this off day: 26.35 miles.

The post Day 17. Cave City, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Like most days we were dodging cloudy skies with the potential for rain. It was also cooling off during the day. On the trip today was saw camels at farm, Amish buggies, kangaroos, and goat with his head stuck in a fence. Greg, being the cowboy he is, jumped to the rescue and freed the goat from his entanglement. We noticed that once we got onto the loop road that the terrain was not as hilly and made very good time to Cave City. We contemplated stopping at Munfordville but Greg was the one that wanted to push on for the last 12.2 miles. Sue and I were up for it.

When we arrived in Cave City the first three hotels that we stopped at were being used for long term stays by people and families that were displaced because of unfortunate economic situations. We did manage to procure rooms at a Sleep Inn near interstate 65 and close to a Cracker Barrel.

Today’s stats: total mileage 81.14 miles, elevation gain 3720 feet, elevation descent 3862 feet, average speed 12.8 mph, max speed 35.2 mph.

The post Day 16. Springfield, KY to Cave City, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

As soon as we left Berea the countryside changed. The hills were lower, the poverty was gone, the houses larger, the yards and fences well maintained, and there were actually fields of crops growing. However we did still have some dogs to deal with but not as frequent or large. One dog still managed to slobber on Sue’s left pannier but a blast, and my final blast, from my air horn was enough to stop any damage to the bag.

After leaving the rest stop there was a quick left turn. The road signage was covered by shrubbery and we almost blew by the turn. Bill and Greg behind us were not so lucky. Greg missed the turn but Bill saw it. We kept on going up and over the hills and stopped for cold drinks about 20 miles later. As we were leaving the convenience store in Bryantsville we both heard a whistle. It was Bill. We waited for him to catch us and he was in a panic in that he could not find Greg. We knew that Greg was not in front of use. A quick phone call to Greg let us know that he was about 10 minutes behind us. So we waited for Greg to also to catch up to us. It was not Greg’s fault that he missed the turn, we almost did too. If it was not for the phone app we probably would have as well. From this point we decided to ride together again but we had to push hard.

Bill and Greg were going to stop in Harrodsburg and Sue and I were going to continue to Springfield. In the last 4 miles before Harrodsburg we got separated. Bill and Greg took another wrong turn and we waited 40 minutes for them to catch up to us, but they never did. Their wrong turn took them through Harrodsburg and on the way to Springfield, which was 30 miles west of Harrodsburg. When we finally spoke on the phone we determined that they were 6 miles beyond us. Instead of turning back they continued onto Springfield. We needed to hustle to catch them and get to Springfield before dark and also before a storm hit. The scenery in the last 20 miles was absolutely fantastic with stretches of one lane roads, covered by tree canopy and somewhat flat. We never caught Greg because of the lead he had on us out of Harrodsburg and because he can make great speeds on his recumbent bike on the flats and downhills. Bill, we caught 12 miles before Springfield, and passed him. Our rush was to avoid as much of the lightening and rain storm as possible. We did ride in the rain but the lightening seemed to be behind us. We all made it safely to our destination for the day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 77.06 miles; average speed 11.8 mph, elevation gain 5003 feet, elevation descent 5121 feet, max speed 36.4 mph.

The post Day 15. Berea, KY to Springfield, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

On this day the roads were confusing. They were confusing because a new US 30 was completed and signage for the bike route for those going west was not updated. We followed the signs for US 30 but did not realize we were on the new US 30 and not the old US 30. At one point we were supposed to turn right off of US 30 but did not see an intersection. This is because the new US 30 was on a bridge that was over the old US 30, a deep depression, and over a stream. We were off the track. After approximately 2 miles of uphill we figured it out and had to back track. On this back tracking route we rain into Bill and Greg again and they were about to make the same mistake we were correcting. We got everyone straightened out and on the proper route.

When we got back on route I had a deja vu moment because I remember the bridge from last year when I rode under the bridge while it was still under construction. Now it was opened, the roads were renamed, or renumbered, but the signage was not correct. The maps were definitely not up to date.

We all carried onto to Berea with a fantastic downhill just before entering the town. Once in Berea we stopped in a lawn of Berea College across from the the historic Boone Hotel for some cool drinks that we had acquired. Interestingly, as we were stopped and contemplating where to go from there a guy approached us. He said he was passing by, identified himself as a cyclists and asked if we needed any assistance. We did not need any, but it was great to see the friendship from another cyclist. Moments after the cyclist left later a deacon was walking by and chatted with us for a bit. Turns out he was originally from Laurel, MD, which is not far from where I live.

Our goal was to make it a cyclists rest stop about 20 miles west of Berea. However we stopped at the Berea Artesian and Cultural Center on the west side of town to explore the crafts from local artists. By the time we got out of the Center it was too late to continue to the cyclists rest stop. We found a place to stay on the west side of town.

Today’s stats: total mileage 53.9 miles, average speed 10.6 mph, elevation gain 3724 feet, elevation descent 3514 feet, maximum speed 36.9 mph.

The post Day 14. Booneville, KY to Berea, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

We pulled into Buckhorn, KY it was around 5 and raining. The question was to either get a campsite in the Corps of Engineer’s campground or continue onto Booneville. We kept on going and encountered a thunderstorm which made us pull off the road for a few minutes until the lightening stopped. When we got to Booneville we pulled into the cyclists hostel, at a church, identified by Adventure Cycling and found that it was no longer a viable site. The porta-johns were removed as were the showers. With no apparent choices to stay we did start to unpack but two others stopped at the Dollar General store and were told that the church was closed and was being turned into a rehab center. The others were invited to stay at another church that was receiving cyclists and we joined them. This church was located in the downtown area and nice showers and a great kitchen. It worked out well.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.1, average speed 10.6 mph, elevation gain 4573 feet, elevation descent 4898 feet, maximum speed 36.5 mph.

The post Day 13. Hindman, KY to Booneville, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

In Booneville we were going to stay at a church at the edge of town. However when we got there the place was deserted, there were no toilets, showers or running water. Plus the winds were whipping and it felt chilly. Fortuneately, Bill and Greg met a woman in the Dollar General store and made connections that allowed us to stay at a different church in the middle of town. The pastor let us in the church. It had everything you wanted from a ceiling, showers, toilet and a full commercial kitchen. It was another early night to bed for we were all tired.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.1 miles, average speed 10.6 mph, max speed 36.5 mph, elvation gain 4573 feet, elevation lost 48984 feet.

The post Day 12. Hindman, KY to Booneville, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Today was also a day of my first flat tire. Someplace on an uphill I picked up a carpet nail that punctured the tire. Better to get it on the uphill and not the downhill. After the flat was fixed I was riding angrily. Meaning I was pushing up the hills faster than ever.

When we got to Hindman we went to a church for the night. The church was in downtown Hindman but there were no grocery stores in town. Therefore I headed back out of town to the grocery store for supplies. Also staying at the church were Amy and Woody, two people from Pittsburgh, PA. They were a little disgruntled because of the bike problems they were incurring which were mainly flat tires and a hanging derailleur. It was another early night

Todays’ stats: total mileage 62.18 miles, average speed 10.9 mph, elevation gain 4331 feet, elevation descent 4134 feet, and max speed 36.9 feet.

The post Day 11. Elkhorn City, KY to Hindman, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Last year when I rode this section of roadway I was attacked by a big white day in Breaks, VA. That dog sunk his teeth into my pannier and ripped it. There was no way I wanted to encounter that dog again. We were able to avoid the dog by hopping onto a new road under construction. As we moved down the road and into Kentucky I noticed a man walking alongside the road. About 500 feet past the man I stopped to check the app to make sure we were on the right road. We weren’t, however the man introduced himself as Mike. Mike gave us directions on how to get to Elkhorn City and said we could stay at city hall. Well Mike was Mayor Mike who I met last year and allowed me to stay in city hall. However, today was primary day in Kentucky so we would have to wait until the election was over and the results tabulated.

We did that by going to a bar for food and beer. When we got back to city hall the mayor was there and we also found there was a problem in how the election results were being portrayed. The mayor then invited us to stay at the community center. Officer Yeager of the Elkhorn City police department escorted us to the community center. The building was even better than City Hall so it was a win for us. Also the mayor brought use chicken salad sandwiches and pudding to eat. Thanks Mayor Mike for the hospitality.

Today’s stats: total mileage 51.37 miles; average speed 11.7 mph; max speed 50.4 mph; elevation gain 3704 feet, elevation loss 5039 feet.

The post Day 10. Rosedale, VA to Elkhorn City, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

When we got back on the road it was off to Rosedale to stay at another church for the night. There were no inside showers but only outside and cold water. It still felt great. It was another early night to sleep where we all slept on the floor of the sanctuary.

Today’s stats: total mileage 56.8 miles, elevation gain 3832 feet, elevation loss 4731 feet, max speed 36.9 mph, average speed 11.5 mph.

The post Day 9. Troutville, VA to Rosedale, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The night was spent in a bunkhouse behind a church. When we arrived there was a guy named Dave staying and Julie. Dave was the community handyman and Julie was an east bound solo cyclist who started in Santa Monica in California and rode the Route 66 trail until Kansas then hopped onto the TransAmerican Route.

Today’s stats: total mileage 77.2 miles, average speed 11.2 mph, elevation gain 5791 feet, elevation descent 4633 feet, max speed 38.6 mph.

The post Day 8 Radford, VA to Troutville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The post Day 7 Radford VA (off day) appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The day started with overcast skies, then light rain, then overcast, then hard rain, then beautiful blue sky, then overcast, and finally a torrential downpour right before we ended the day. The roads were great. Some places had few cars and when there were cars the shoulders were 3 to 4 feet wide. We experienced it all that day.

So far there are not too many ailments. Yes we have sore butts, aching muscles, and some fatigue but a day off is needed. On this day we finished the first of 12 section maps for the TransAmerican bike route. Not bad. Six days of riding and covering 345 miles with a crossing of the Blueridge Mountains.

Today’s stats: total mileage 60.9 miles, total elevation gain 4816 feet, descent 4091 feet, max speed 36.2 mph; average speed 11.8 mph.

The post Day 6. Daleville, VA to Radford, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

From here it was a quick trip to Buchanan VA to cross a swinging bridge. No we didn’t not ride our bikes across and I am sure it would be too dangerous with 4 people, 4 bikes, and 4 loads of gear on the ol’ bridge. Plus, look how crooked it is.

From there it was onto Daleville for the night.

Today’s stats: total mileage 49.08 miles; elevation gain 3268 feet; elevation descent 3189 feet; max speed 39.7 miles.

The post Day 5. Lexington, VA to Daleville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Once up on the Blueridge Parkway we still had plenty of elevation gain to get to 3300 feet above sea level. We got to that elevation twice. The maps we are using are the latest maps available but outdated or just plain wrong. Typically on the climbs Sue and I are riding within eyeshot of each other but one time I had to stop to catch me breath. She kept on going. I thought that I would catch by the visitor center for Humpback Rocks but there was no such thing. Along the route I came across a young couple sitting on some rocks in an observation area and I asked if the had seen Sue go by. The guy said she was about 15 minutes in front of me. The woman said ”And she is kicking your butt!” Thanks!

By around 5:30 we were ready to descend to the town of Vesuvius, VA. It was a quick 3.7 miles downhill filled with hairpin turns, narrow roads, and steep cliffs. Last year it took me almost 3 hours to make the climb up, this time maybe 20 minutes to go down. What a thrill ride. The plan was to stay at the Mallard Duck Campground outside of Vesuvius. We arrived at 7 pm and it was closed. Not closed for the season but closed permanently with ”Posted” signs etc. Our only alternative was pedal 17 more miles to Lexington, VA. The first 12 miles was a nice flat road with a road grade of around negative 2 percent or less and we flew. Then it was uphill and getting dark. We made it to a Best Western hotel after sunset but before it was dark. Applebees next door had the tastiest food around for hungry cyclists.

Today’s stats: total mileage 79.9 miles, average speed 10.3 mph, elevation gain 7142 feet, descent 6421 feet, maximum speed 48.0 mph.

The post Day 4. Charlottesville, VA to Lexington VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Finally at a mini-mart outside of Palmyra, VA I found them eating lunch in the shade. Once I figured out what happened and how I pointed them to a mouse infested church to spend the night we made a decision to carry on to Charlottesville. When we left the mini-mart it was already 3:30 and we still had 20 miles to go. The roads became narrower and hiller with more traffic. I like to stay as close to the white line as possible when there is no shoulder but some of the others not so much.

Getting into Charlottesville include a steep incline, poorly marked streets and a little mis-direction on my part. The others don’t know any better so they follow me. Thankful I do have the Adventure Cycling TransAmerican bike route on a phone app which got me back on the route near Bumpass and again in Charlottesville.

Tonight was a night in a hotel because of the lack of camping sites in the vicinity. It was needed because the next day we tackle the Blueridge Parkway.

Today’s states: 104.8 miles (the others did 20 miles less); average speed 12.5 mph; elevation gain 4721 feet; descent 4514 feet; max speed 36.1 mph

The post Day 3. Ashland, VA to Charlottesville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The ride was flat and the traffic not too bad. The cell service was horrible for being so close to Richmond, VA.

Today’s stats: total mileage 37.7 miles: elevation gain 909 feet; elevation descent 768 feet; average speed 12.5 mph; and maximum speed 29.1 mph

The post Day 2. Glendale, VA to Ashland, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Before we got to Williamsburg Greg had two flat tires. The second resulted in a tube change and then everything was good. After lunch at the Cheese Shop in Williamsburg it was off to Glendale. However, less than 1 mile outside of Williamsburg a bolt on my pannier broke. This happened to me last year. With the help of a strap I was able to put it back together until I see a hardware store. By the time we got to Charles City the rain stopped but it remained cloudy and overcast.

We made it to Willis Methodist Church for our overnight accommodations. There we met Cory from West Virginia. A nice guy for sure.

Today’s stats: total mileage = 62.1; average speed = 12.2 mph; elevation gain = 1437 feet; max speed = 33.6 mph.

The post Day 1. Yorktown, VA to Glendale, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

This time I am doing it with four others. First there is Greg, the Canadian from British Columbia and Florida. Next is Bill, our bike mechanic from New Jersey. Third is Andy from Detroit and President of his company and finally is Sue, the Appalachian Trail hiker from Connecticut.

Day zero was Ann driving Sue and myself to Yorktown, VA. I met Sue in Lancaster, PA the day before and she stayed with Ann and myself for the night. But today we were on our way to Yorktown, in the rain and in the car. Just before we got to Yorktown it stopped raining. Our night was going to be at the Grace Episcopal Church. What we did not know is how beautiful the accommodations would be. A brand new building for cyclists and other church functions over looking the York River. It was a great place to stay before we start our ride.

After we looked around and Ann and I said our good byes before Sue and I walked downtown Yorktown and to the visitor center at the National Battlefield, before we met Greg and his wife Heather. We had a great dinner of pub food. Later that evening Bill arrived at the Church to stay as well.

The weather looked crappy for the next day with lots of rain, cool temperatures, and overcast skies for day 1 of the adventure.

The post Day 0. Silver Spring, MD to Yorktown, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Total miles cycled = 4,484

Longest day 126.29 miles —> Fairplay, CO to Pueblo, CO

Shortest day 26.27 miles —> Jamestown, VA to Yorktown, VA

Average miles per day 72.3

Warmest temperature as measured from my bike computer 118 degrees F. Baker City, OR to Oxbow, OR

Coolest temperature as measured from my bike computer 43 degrees F. Sula, MT to Dillon, MT

Total elevation gain 178,118 feet

Total elevation loss 174,053 feet

Number of flat tires 1

8 crossings of the continental divide

Highest elevation 11,500 feet above sea level —> Hoosier Pass in Colorado

Number of hills bike pushed up a hill or mountain NONE

States visited: Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, and Virginia.

The post The Trip Data appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

They final 26 miles took longer than expected because I took a detour through colonial Williamsburg. But once back on route it also seemed longer. It was more anticipation. I wanted this journey to end but the same time I did not want it to end. But I really wanted to see Ann.

At times along this journey I was very lonely. The journey was as much an emotional challenge as it was physical. I never doubted my ability to be up for the physical challenge. So in 68 days I covered over 4300 miles by riding on 61 of those days. Pretty good for someone that turned 61 on this journey. I will provide a data summary with my next posting.

I want to thank Ann and Bobby for supporting me throughout this journey. I remember telling them last Thanksgiving that I wanted to make this trip. I am not sure if they were surprised by my statement but there was the support right from the beginning. There were times I needed their support along the road and I got it. Talking with them, or thinking of them, and wonderful and how important they are in my life pushed and up and over the low points for each spin of my legs made me that much closer to seeing them again. I love you both!

Today’s stats: total mileage 26.28 miles; average speed 13.5 mph; max speed 31 mph; elevation gain 568 feet; elevation loss 558 feet.

I DID IT!

The post Day 68. Jamestown, VA to Yorktown, VA. The last day! appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The route from Ashland goes south to Richmond and then to downtown Richmond where I pick up the off-road trail. The route starts in rural areas, then suburban and then urban right to downtown Richmond and along the historic buildings and the capital building for Virginia. Maybe I made a mistake in following the route but there were some cobblestone streets to ride on in the historic area of Richmond which greatly slowed my pace.

The Capital trail parallels the James River for the initial part then it goes a little inland. The trail is paved with some hills. Not hills that I had previously seen anywhere west of here, but they were unexpected. Now I should have expected these hills because last fall Ann and I rode this trail to Williamsburg, VA. So it was up and down for a while. The closer I got to Jamestown the flatter the hills become and the faster I can go. I did encounter many cyclists on this day, but they were all day trippers, with the only purpose it appeared, was to go fast. Let the racers pass me. I don’t care. I am on my second to last day of riding across the country.

I made it to Jamestown in great time. Faster than expected. Ann had arranged for me to stay overnight with her volleyball coach when she played for William & Mary as an undergraduate. Instead of going to straight to Debbie and Camilla’s house I continued to the historic Jamestown settlement. One of the earliest settlements in the United States. It was a nice day so I took the loop road around the island which added a few extra miles to the day. Not a big deal. When you travel over 4300 miles across country on a bicycle, what is another 5 miles.

Staying with Debbie and Camilla was an absolute wonderful experience. They are such great hosts and avid cyclists as well. The view from their beautiful house over the James River is priceless. We were able to trade stories about my trip and their numerous bicycle trips across the country. I hope to keep on riding as long as they have and even longer. The fact that they did the southern tier of states this spring is very impressive and that is not their first bicycle trip across the country. Thanks Debbie and Camilla for the great hospitality.

Today’s stats: total mileage 81.30 miles; average speed 13.6 mph; max speed 33.3 mph; total elevation gain 1109 feet; elevation loss 1155 feet.

The post Day 67. Ashland, VA to Jamestown, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Only two more days of riding left!

Today’s stats: total mileage 97.86 miles; average speed 13 mph; max speed 37.9 mph; elevation gain 4377 feet; elevation descent 4259 feet.

The post Day 66. Charlottesville, VA to Ashland, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The ride from Lexington to Vesuvius at the base of the parkway was pleasant and flat. But make that right turn on VA 56 and nightmare begins. It was windy, narrow, and now well travelled road. It was very steep where 1600 feet of elevation were gained within 3.7 miles. What you don’t see is the heat the humidity that was prevalent. It meant many breaks for water, Gatorade and to catch my breath. Then when I make it up to the Parkway there was still more climbing. There was also no places to re-supply with water. Fortunately where was the Information Center, after riding on the Parkway for 20 miles, that had cold running water via a mountain stream. I really needed that.

The Blue Ridge parkway is managed by the National Park Service but much of land that immediately abuts the parkway is privately owned, or goes through George Washington National Forest. Farming does occur immediately adjacent to the road in some places. But for the most part the parkway follows a ridge line or near the tops of the Shenandoah Mountain range.

While riding I could see a rain storm to the east but what I did not see was the larger and darker storm coming at me from the northwest. I saw this only when I got to the gap where there was a road down the mountain range.

I made it down and hung out at a country store for 90 minutes for the storm to pass. It got so bad that numerous cars pulled into the parking lot of the store to wait for the storm to pass. When the storm was over it was still very dark. 4:30 in the afternoon felt like 7 pm and I still had 24 miles to go to get to Charlottesville. The roads that I took were back roads with many downed limbs and branches on the roadway. It was still up and down but the ups were not has high, but some were still 7 percent grades.

I did make it to Charlottesville around 7 but kept thinking sunset had occurred. There was still vestiges of daylight for another 90 minutes after I stopped and got into hotel. It was such a dark day.

Today’s states: total mileage 78.1 miles; average speed 11.4 mph; max speed 39.5 mph; elevation gain 6190 feet; elevation descent 6849 feet.

The post Day 65. Lexington, VA to Charlottesville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

I also didn’t know that VA highway 11 actually uses the land bridge to make the connection. I rode on that route to get to the entrance to this place and I had no idea I was traveling on the bridge.

Today took me to Lexington, VA the home of the Virginia Military Institute and Washington and Lee University. VMI has what appears to be the most hideous campus I have ever seen. The buildings are puke green and concrete. Now I didn’t see all of the campus and maybe it looks better elsewhere but the portion that is viewed by the public, who are not associated VMI, is not down right ugly. Try a different paint color to brighten it up.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.2 miles; average speed 12.5 mph; max speed 40.6 mph; elevation gain 4009 feet; elevation loss 4736 feet.

The post Day 64. Catawba, VA to Lexington, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Today is another of those days where I wanted to get some serious mileage in to set me up for the next day. But of course this is Virginia in August, which means serious heat, high humidity and daily thunderstorms. I stopped under the awning of a Baptist church to see which way a storm was going. It was in front of me but crossing my path but did not rain on me.

There was really no place to stay so I choose to stay at a hostel that caters to Appalachian hikers in Catawba. The place was a 6 car garage converted into space for bunk beds, one bathroom, a kitchen and numerous couches. There were no hikers stopping by during this time of year but the place was a mess. At peak hiking times there could be 70 people staying there either in the building or camping outdoors. I am not sure what they do about the lack of bathroom facilities. The two resident hosts were a trip and not the cleanest people. Even though there is a sign that says people should do their dishes when they are done these two did not and the sink was loaded with at least 2 days of dishes. The bunks were dirty from all the grubby hikers so I ended up sleeping on one of the couches because it seemed the cleanest but I still felt very dirty when I left. Let’s say that I was happy to leave.

Today’s stats: total mileage 84.1 miles; average speed 13.2 mph; max speed 37 mph; elevation gain 5430 feet; elevation descent 6006 feet.

The post Day 63. Wytheville VA to Catawba, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The post Day 62. Wytheville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Today was also the day where I went through Damascus, VA, which is only a few miles from the Tennessee border. In Damascus I hopped onto the Virginia Creeper trail, a former railroad, which is a now a crushed bike path for 11 miles. It was windy, and rocky and there were a lot of cyclists going downhill. It is a thing for people to rent bikes in Damascus and get shuttled to the top of Koonnarock and coast downhill back to Damascus. Damascus is also one of the main locations where the popular Appalachian hiking trail meets the TransAmerican biking route. It is a main refueling point for the hikers. Riding the Virginia Creeper trail took longer than expected but it was nice to be away from the traffic for an hour.

On today’s ride I was in a rush to get to Wytheville. Initially I didn’t think I was going to make it before dark but made it with at least an hour before the sunset.

Today’s stats: total mileage 93.75 miles; average speed 11.6 mph; maximum speed 36.6 mph; total elevation gain 5991 feet; total elevation descent 5978 feet.

The post Day 61. Rosedale, VA to Wytheville, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

I remember westbound cyclists telling me of a big white dog but they always said it was in Kentucky. This was Virginia. Right dog. Wrong state. This dog has gone after other cyclists including biting into someone else’s saddle bag. Because I thought I was clear of dogs, this morning, I had put my air horn inside of one of my bags and no longer had it strapped to my bike frame. I removed it a day early.

After clearing the dog’s territory I amazed by the amount of kudzu growing on the side of the road and up the trees. It was so sad to see how it has strangled the native trees and other vegetation. It is so bad the kudzu is covering the road shoulders as well.

In my ride across the country I have met some wonderful people and have kept in touch with a few. There is a couple Dom and Sarah that I met in Idaho. I know they are a few hundred miles behind me and still in Missouri. I wanted them to keep watch for Maggie. Maggie is my friend from NYC that I met in the hostel in Farmington, MO. Wouldn’t you know it, they ran into Maggie today.

It was up and over more hills and quiet rural roads to Rosedale, Virginia. Tonight I am staying at the Elk Garden United Methodist Church 4 miles east of Rosedale. The church has been hosting TransAmerica bicyclists since 1976. They have copies of all the log books since that time available too view. Thousands of cyclists have stayed at this facility and it is really nice. It is clean, has air conditioning, great kitchen and ice maker, and it has an outdoor cold water shower which feels great on a hot day. The floor in the sanctuary part of the building is very comfortable to sleep on because of the cushioning underneath the carpet. Two pew seat pads also make for a great mattress.

Today’s stats: total mileage 49.01 miles; average 10.4 mph; max speed 37.0 mph; elevation gain 4856 feet; elevation descent 3507 feet.

The post Day 60. Elkhorn City, KY to Rosedale, VA appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

My plan today is to ride to hostel/church in a place called Lookout. However along the way I met a guy from New Zealand going west and he told me that the hostel was closed. There was not backup plan other than to keep on riding. On this day I encountered a shower and a thunderstorm. The shower occurred when I stopped to get something to drink so I stayed while it passed by. The thunderstorm I was not so lucky. I was able to take shelter underneath a small overhang of a deserted commercial building. There is no way that I am going to ride during a thunder and lightning storm. I stayed there for over an hour and once back on the road it was up and over more fills.

In the distance is a town called Elkhorn City, which is right at the Kentucky/Virginia border. It was my only hope for a place to stay. But before getting there I had more hills to climb. Outside of the hamlet of Hellier three corgis came charging down the road toward me with the owner chasing after them. As he got closer he said “be careful, that one bites”. I have no idea which one he was referring to because they all looked the same and then I felt the little dog try to bite my right rear pannier. Once by them I stopped to assess the damage and could feel a small indentation but lots of dog slobber. He did not puncture the bag.

Fortunately for me the last 10 miles between Ashcamp and Elkhorn city were all downhill because the sun was setting. As I got into town I saw a Sheriff speaking with some residents and approached him about a safe place to say. Officer Adam said that I could stay at City Hall and the mayor wants cyclists to stay at City Hall. Officer Adam escorted me to City Hall and unlocked the building for me to get inside. Later the mayor came buy and introduced himself and unlocked his cabinet of goodies. “Help yourself” he said. He had a large stash of pop tarts, raisins, peanut butter cups, crackers, instant rice, apple juice and other sweeter things. I slept on the floor of the Council chambers, which was nothing more than a large room because the town is only 1200 people large.

Today’s stats: total mileage 82.94 miles; average speed 11.7 mph; max speed 49.3 mph; total elevation gain 5020 feet; total elevation loss 5072 feet.

The post Day 59. Combs, KY to Elkhorn City, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

The ups and downs are there. They are a fact of life in Kentucky. So is being chased by dogs. What is also a fact is the poor road construction. No shoulders and often times huge chunks of the road have fallen from the road and down the hillside. The roads, in Kentucky, this route takes me is narrow and sometimes too narrow for a yellow strip down the middle, no shoulders or shoulders that suddenly disappear, or if there is a shoulder there is a rumble strip in it. But even with these shortcomings the scenery is still spectacular.

Today was a race against sunlight. I was hoping to get farther than I did and stay at a hostel in Hindman but settled for the community park in Combs, KY. The park there was very nice and they are very open to cyclists camping in the park. Fortunately the swimming pool was open late so I was able to get a shower before cooking dinner. Overall it was a long day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 95.33 miles; average speed 11.5 mph; max speed 37.0 mph; total elevation gain 6506 feet; elevation descent 6755 feet.

Footnote: There are many more hills to climb east of the Rockies. They are shorter but steeper and I have noticed that my overall elevation gains are sometimes greater in the midwestern states than they are in the mountain states.

The post Day 58. Berea, KY to Combs, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Within the first 10 miles in the morning I was forced off the road by a truck. The roads are very narrow, there are no shoulders, and when going up a steep hill the cars behind must slowdown behind me or risk passing and causing a head on collision. There is usually no grass for me to step off onto either for the ditches are sharp and sudden. This particular time an utility truck was right on my tail. I could feel it and cars where coming over and down the hill I was climbing. When the land beside the road became flatter I drove off the road to avoid being rear ended by the driver of the utility truck. He was moving as fast as I was, which was not fast but he was right on my tail. Needless to say this is my first encounter with this kind of driver and the first time I rode off the road. Once at the top I pulled into the parking lot of Baptist Church to collect myself and think of what just happened. Ten minutes later two cyclists, going eastbound, pull over as well. They are a couple from Idaho riding e-assist bikes. I heard of them while in Kansas but since I have not seen many others since then I had no idea that they were behind me. After a quick chat they were off.

After 22 miles I came upon the place where I really wanted to camp the night before. The couple from Idaho were also there so we chatted more and they told me of all the cool things to do in Berea.

Okay, Berea is cool and artsy and the time went by fast visiting the various artisan villages. It was too late to get as far as I wanted to today so I called it quits and made it almost like a rest day.

Today’s stats: total mileage 51.1 miles; average speed 11.4 mph; max speed 33.7 mph; total elevation gain 3328 feet: total elevation loss 3090 feet.

The post Day 57. Harrodsburg, KY to Berea, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

Since I was a little off route in Elizabethtown I needed to get back on the route. In doing so I rode through Hodgenville, KY which is loaded with Abraham Lincoln memorabilia.

Abe was born in these parts and his birth place and boyhood home are memorialized near Hodgenville as National Parks. I didn’t see his birth place but tried to see the boyhood home. It was closed for renovations. To get back on route I went through a town called New Haven. It is not as nice as the New Haven that I lived in 35 years ago but appears to have an interesting train museum. The museum was closed when I got there so I could not explore it fully.

As I was approaching Loretta, KY I came across some multi-story, black, institutionalized buildings. At first I thought I was in the Soviet Union and Moscow Mitch allowed some of his friends in the state. Then I thought I thought was a prison. I have seen enough of those on this adventure. From the outside only. But, the windows were too big. It finally dawned on me that these might be somehow tied to either the whiskey industry on the pot industry. Probably whiskey since it is Kentucky.

I have finally realized that the bike route creators tried to make cyclists take the longest and hilliest route from point A to point B. I started to notice that the route sometimes goes off a main road onto side roads only to reconnect with the main road 15 miles later. There are few straight roads in Kentucky. Sometimes these side roads are really quaint with no traffic but incredibly steep hills.

I tried to outsmart the map creators and took a “short cut” along a somewhat busy road but a road with a 4 foot wide shoulder that I could ride on. It was the first shoulder that I could ride on in all of Kentucky. My “short cut” saved me time and the elevation increase was at a steady 1 to 1.5 percent grade increase instead of the steepest of the steep.

I really didn’t have a plan on where to stay this evening other than a camping spot 22 miles further east. It was getting too late in the day to try to make it on the windy and hilly roads so I settled for another cheap hotel. The best part of the hotel was the DQ in walking distance.

Today’s stats: total mileage 77.2 miles; average speed 12.7 mph; max speed 41.4 mph; elevation gain 3350 feet; elevation descent 3238 feet.

The post Day 56. Elizabethtown, KY to Harrodsburg, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

I did manage to make it to Elizabethtown which is 12 miles off the “official” route to get a hotel room. There were no hotels, campgrounds, hostels, VFD, churches anything else that would enable me to get the rest I needed tonight. The trip could have been longer but two nice guys at a convenience store told me of a rarely used, but safe shortcut that would get me off the busy roads and cut 12 miles off the trip. It took me a while to understand what they were saying but it did sound like English just with a thick accent and lots of abbreviations such as E-town for Elizabethtown and WK for western Kentucky parkway. Once I realized what those abbreviations were for I was able to figure it out. It was a great short cut too.

Today was also the first time on this trip that I saw tobacco fields. I was wondering if I would see any in Kentucky.

Today’s stats: total mileage 67.78 miles; average speed 11.8 mph; max speed 37.1 mph; total elevation gain 3766 feet; total descent 3465 feet.

The post Day 55. Fordville, KY to Elizabethtown, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.

When I got into Fordville around 6 pm I was going to camp at a campground 3 miles west of town. But when I got to the spot it was a rundown county recreational park in dire need of TLC. There was no campground. I gambled and rode the remaining distance to Fordville and as I was riding I remember that Maggie, the woman I met in Farmington, gave me a list of all the places she stayed in. She did stay in Fordville at the volunteer fire department. She me gave the phone number to the Chief. When I called he had no problem letting me stay there and said a few other cyclists have as well. So I got to sleep with the fire trucks.

Today’s stats: total mileage 97.3; average speed 12.6 mph; maximum speed 34.8 mph; total elevation gain 4493 feet; elevation loss 4698 feet.

The post Day 54. Marion, KY to Fordville, KY appeared first on Cycling to new places at a slow pace.